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Kitchen Cabinet Makeover Reveal

162 Comments

…And The World’s Longest Kitchen Cabinet Painting Tutorial!

It’s finally done! I’ve finished painting my kitchen cabinets and to celebrate, I’m sharing the entire process with you! I’ve learned a lot along the way, made a few mistakes, and in the end, am thrilled with the results. This makeover has completely transformed the look of my kitchen, and since the kitchen is open to the living room, it’s even changed the feel of the whole area.

Here’s a quick reminder of what the kitchen looked like before…Kitchen Before

And here is the new improved (and very bright) kitchen!Kitchen Cabinet Makeover Reveal

My husband jokes that we could signal outer space from our kitchen, with the way the light bounces around. I choose to take that as a compliment. To me, who does not love to cook, and really really does not love doing dishes, the only thing worse than these tasks is having to do them in a dark and dreary space. Now, I don’t even mind cooking in my new kitchen, although I do still mind dishes a little bit.

Here are a few quick facts about this makeover, before I get to the tutorial:

  • The whole project cost me about $160. I bought paint, primer, new rollers, and sandpaper. I already had brushes and most of the other items for preparing the surfaces. I bought shelf brackets (at Hobby Lobby) and a new shelf (at Lowes). The new light fixture is actually an old one that used to hang over my dining table. I still loved the knobs and hinges, so I kept all the hardware, and saved hundreds of dollars. All appliances and countertops are the same, although I’d love to change them out some day as part of “Kitchen Remodel 2.0”.
  • It took about 3 weeks from start to finish, working an average of 2-3 hours a day on weekdays and almost none on weekends. This may sound backwards to some of you DIY-ers, but as a work-at-home mom, I was surprised at how many distractions (don’t tell my kids I called them a distraction!) popped up to get in the way. So I just did the best I could and worked whenever I could get away without traumatizing the family. You could probably achieve the same results working only on the weekends for longer chunks of time. And if you really applied yourself, you could probably be done with a project like this in about a week or two, working full time on it.
  • There is only one way to get a professional-looking finish when painting your kitchen cabinets: do it the way the professionals do! Anyone who tells you there is a hack, trick, or special product to cut corners is trying to sell you something. Speaking of which, I’m not selling anything. This is not a sponsored post, meaning all the products in the post are ones I’ve found, tried, and evaluated on my own, so my opinions are unbiased and solely based on my own experience.

~ This post contains affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase I may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thanks for supporting The Palette Muse! ~

Alright, let’s get down to business. How do you paint your kitchen cabinets the right way? Read on…

When I started this project I had visions of naming it something like “The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Painting Cabinets” or “The Secret to Easy Cabinet Painting.” Sadly, as I started researching and working, I quickly came to see that there would be no easy way out for me. And you can be sure that if there was an easy way out, I would find it! (I’m not known for my diligent work ethic.) But laziness has its advantages, and in this case I was motivated by a burning desire to never have to do this work again. To get it right the first time became my mantra, and I hope my experience helps you if you are similarly motivated to try a project like this. Kitchen Cabinet Makeover Reveal and DIY Tutorial

Phase One: Organize Your Project

  1. Pick paint colors. I chose Valspar’s “Totten’s Inlet” in Satin for the Cabinets and “Gravity” in Flat for the walls.
  2. Decide what kind of paint to use. I knew I wanted a self leveling paint with a long drying time, (more about why in a minute) and chose Benjamin Moore Advance. It’s an Alkyd paint, which is like an oil paint suspended in water, so it’s got all the advantages of oil, with none of the messy clean up. Along with the paint, I used a mohair roller and synthetic brushes.
  3. Define your workspace. Ha! This one is a joke. This project will take over your whole house. Just be prepared. But really, you can make your life easier by breaking this project down into two pieces: the boxes, or frames, and the doors and drawer fronts. Also, consider the weather. If you are planning on working in your garage, keep in mind that the temperature needs to be at least 50 degrees for the paint to dry properly. Any colder than that and you’ll be inside painting cabinet doors on every horizontal surface in your house!
  4. Collect your supplies. It’s inevitable, but nothing is more frustrating than having to make a run to the hardware store in the middle of a project because you ran out of sandpaper. I know this from much experience.

Kitchen Cabinet Painting Supply List:

Click page 2 or 3 below to keep reading…

Comments

  1. Beautiful! The new cabinets really make the floor stand out as a statement. You did a great job and should be very proud! Its nice that you could re-use the hardware as that did save a bundle.

    Reply

    • Thank you Rachel! This was definitely a cost-effective project, as long as I don’t think too much about what my time is worth! 🙂

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  2. That looks awesome and I rarely use that word but Wow…your cabinets look fresh and modern and very good job, well done, and Merry Christmas.

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  3. Absolutely stunning! I am SO impressed! I love that you reveal that the only way to do a job like this is to do it the right way…no short-cuts! I can’t help but notice that the flooring looks like it has so much more depth!

    Reply

    • Thank you Jacquie! I’m so glad it looks better with the flooring. That may be a strange motivator for a project like this, but in the end I’m so glad it worked out!

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      • Thank you so much for your step by step honest report. I am about to tackle mine. Hopefully they will turn out as beautiful as yours

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    • Thank you! Yes, I have to admit it was a lot of work, but totally worth it. I’m sure there are quicker easier ways, but this way I know it will last…

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  6. Meredith, is it ok to gush? I love the new look, it is so bright and clean. When you started out I wondered why since your old kitchen looked so nice but this is fantastic. Kudos to you. Am so glad it was completed in time for Christmas – have a great one. By the way, I have printed off this entire post so I can use your instructions for my next (ugh) painting project.

    Reply

    • Ha! Yes, I’ll take gushing any day! Thank you so much, and I hope it’s helpful to you when you get ready to paint. And Merry Christmas to you too!

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  7. The kitchen looks great but I have to say that going into all that detail about what was involved is not inspiring me to plan a similar project. Had you oversimplified I might have been on my way to the hardware store.

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  11. Your kitchen looks really great. Now I’m starting to feel like mine needs a facelift, but won’t be in the house long enough to justify all that effort. Thanks so for such a thorough tutorial. No doubt I will access it someday when the need arises. I’ve priced kitchen cabinets before, and have often told myself I would rather take the time to paint old ones by doing the right prep work than put a bunch of money into new ones. BTW I am finally starting to sand my pine furniture so I can paint it, so in a roundabout way your posts are inspiring me 🙂

    Reply

    • Thanks Jeri! Yes, if you aren’t going to be in the house long, it’s really not worth the effort. But the principles apply to painting just about any kind of furniture, so good luck on yours! Let me know how it turns out…

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  15. Oh, how wonderful – you got it done, and you wrote a great tutorial, too! I will be happy to get my kitchen door painted. Maybe I will aim for just that. Appreciate all the detailed tips.

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    • Thanks Leora! Yes, I think it’s a great idea to start with a realistic-sized project. Even painting a door can make a big difference.

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  16. Meredith, as someone who is no stranger to home renos, I have to admit that you did a bang-up job! Your “new” kitchen is gorgeous! I love the before and after pictures, too. 🙂

    Last summer, we re-did my mom’s kitchen. I took before and after pics as well, and posted them on Facebook and Google+. I hired help, though, as there were four large appliances (stove, washer, dryer, fridge) that had to be moved, as we also installed a new floor.

    The amazing thing was that the whole kitchen was cleaned, primed, and painted in one day. Oh, the floor was put in that same day, once the painting was complete. Three guys and a total cost of $800 for material and labour made it possible to achieve this lofty goal. It was tough, and took five people a total of 12.5 hours, but the end result was worth it. The kitchen had not been touched in about 30 years, and so this was quite the accomplishment!

    That’s what careful planning can do. Yep, I orchestrated this whole event for my mom, for her birthday. “Best gift ever!” she said.

    You can find some pics at https://plus.google.com/102208945593617109562/posts/DgavMno9ZPX if you are interested in seeing my gift to her. 🙂

    Of course, her house is over 100 years old and so is not nearly as nice as yours.

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

    Reply

    • Wow, I think I like your version better! 🙂 Isn’t it funny how you feel better about doing a big project like that when you share it with someone? And you’re so right about the careful planning. That can make or break a whole project. Loved the pics! And Merry Christmas & Happy New Year back to you too!

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  18. The cabinets came out fantastic. I am thinking of refinishing my kitchen table. I thought there was something that melts the varnish instead of going through the work that you did to sand. You have given me inspiration.

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    • Thanks Arleen! Yes, there are a few “chemical sanders” available out there. You can probably ask at your local paint or hardware store. I’m kind of leery of chemical stuff and preferred the mechanical sanding myself, but it sure did make a mess! 🙂

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    • Hahahahaha! That’s just what my mom said, but her kitchen is at least twice the size of mine! I think I’ll be enjoying NOT painting for a while…

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  20. You did it and with perfection. Its looking amazing and brighter. I hope after some time you will come up with some new change in kitchen that will help you happy with dishes too. It is really a nice guiding post that can help many.
    Thank you for great share. All the decorating stuff that you have kept on top of window is looking nice.
    My kitchen and its cabinets are white and I love them as they always give me a soothing and brighter look.

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    • Thank you Anna! Yes, if I come up with something to make me enjoy doing dishes, you can be sure I will share it with the world!

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  21. I am SO impressed Meredith! I rent and as much as I really do love my little home, the one and only “rule” my landlord has is no DIY projects – I can’t even hang pictures so I ‘prop’ them. Still, I do enjoy watching others and learning so this was a great tutorial!

    Reply

    • Thank you Marty! Bummer about the “No DIY” rule. Or maybe that’s kind of a relief? 🙂 I think my husband would like to implement that rule in our house.

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    • Thanks Dianne! I was afraid it was overkill, but it’s hard to find detailed tutorials, so I figured I’d put mine out there. Hope it’s helpful!

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  29. My first thought was “with 160.00 she won’t be touching those glorious floors” and how fabulous it all works together. I’m lazy. What are your thoughts on liquid sanders?

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    • Thank you Betsy! I’ve never used liquid sanders. I’m a bit averse to chemicals, so I stuck with the mechanical sanding. I know some people love them, but I knew I could do it with sanding, and didn’t want to try something new on such a big project! Maybe next time I tackle a smaller furniture project I’ll try out a liquid sander and do a post on that… 🙂

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  30. Gorgeous! Fabulous job! Great re-do! Blah, blah, blah. I loved each and every sentence of your tutorial Meredith. For anyone wanting to re-do their kitchen this way yours is the best tutorial I have seen. My sister bought an OLD trailer with a terrible kitchen. We used one of the Rustoleum cabinet restoration kits. I loved the deglosser that came with it. Sanding these cabinet doors there wouldn’t have been anything left. Like you, we numbered the doors to the cabinets, but when taking the hinges off, we placed them right inside the cabinet itself. That is what this post was about… to suggest putting the door hardware in the cabinet. We didn’t want to try and readjust doors.
    Also, I happened on to your blog by accident and I’m very glad I did. I’ll be back.

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    • Thank you Mary! It’s so nice to meet you. That is such a simple, brilliant solution to the problem I had with the hinges! (Mental head slap) I think I’ll go back and add that to the tutorial for anyone reading this in the future… 🙂

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  31. Best tutorial ever! But I’m confused about the paint choices…you chose a Valspar paint in Satin for the cabinets but then you also chose Benjamin Moore Advance.
    Is the Ben Moore paint the primer? Did you tint it the color of the Valspar paint? Then you top-coated with the Valspar paint? I have painted my kitchen cabinet 3 times now, still not happy with the outcome. I’m going to do it once more and use your tutorial. I am starting to get nicks and chips of paint off the cabinets, which now show the under-color, which is frustrating. With the Valspar and Ben Moore paints, what is their durability? I’m starting to think I need a marine-paint, like for boats! Help!!!

    Reply

    • Hi Vicki, sorry for the confusion over the paint! I picked the color from the Valspar line, but I had it made up in the BM Advance paint, in a satin finish. Valspar does not have this type of self-leveling, slow drying paint, and I knew that BM Advance was perfect for the job, but I already had the color in mind from looking through my Valspar paint swatches. I simply gave the BM guy the paint swatch and he mixed it for me in that color. (Most paint places do have the color recipes of their competitors.) So bottom line – go with Benjamin Moore Advance, both for the primer and the paint. You will not need a separate top coat. Secondly, it sounds like you’ll need to do a better job sanding before you paint again. The nicks and chips are probably due to the paint or primer not adhering to the underlying substance. And if that’s the case, even marine paint won’t do any better. You can solve this by sanding more aggressively. In fact, if you’re willing to do the work, it wouldn’t hurt to completely sand off the previous paint coats, down to the bare wood. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

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      • Thank You! I am willing to do whatever it takes to get the right finish and to get it to last, so sanding, sanding and more sanding it is. Appreciate all the advice and interest. I’ll let you know how I get on…

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    • Someone above mentioned using using Marine Paint. Interesting because I have found that automotive paint works better on my boat.

      Question regarding kitchen cabinet finish. I want to use a clear finish on my cabinets. What do you recommend?

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  34. What a great job! Thanks so much for sharing. I too love BM’s Advance paint. One question – Do you do a final sanding or polishing of some sort? I feel like my cabinets need something to even even out the surface where some areas are slightly more shiny than others. Very minor but noticeable to me. I used the semi-gloss finish.

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    • Hi Susan, thanks! I’ve had that problem on past projects with glossy paint (this one was very low sheen so I haven’t noticed any inconsistencies) and I finally realized that the problem was not enough coats of paint. Rather than finishing with a polishing or poly of some sort, I would recommend one more light coat of paint. That has worked well for me on furniture painting projects. Let me know how it goes…

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  35. So glad to find your tutorial. This is a project that I have planned for this summer. The house I purchased 2 years ago was a for-closure and some company came in and painted everything in the house with a sprayer! Including the cabinets. They didn’t sand, painted the doors while they were still on (so when you open the door you see the old paint color on the frames…yuck), the coverage wasn’t good, Anyway! I keep seeing that BM Advance is the best paint for this project and I’m so glad I can get it near by. I only had one question for you. Do you remember about how much paint you had to buy? I’m sure my kitchen will probably not take the same amount but it will be be a reference to go by. Thanks so much!

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    • Hi Valerie, thanks for stopping by! Sounds like you’ve got quite a project on your hands. I used just under a gallon for my kitchen, and I counted 26 cabinet doors, so hopefully that gives you a reference. Be sure to use the primer too, otherwise you’ll go through a lot more paint. Good luck! Let me know how it goes…

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  36. Hi I am getting ready to paint brand new unfinished cabinets. Is there anything special I need to do. They have never been installed

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    • Hi Marzette! That should actually make it easier for you. You still need to do all the steps listed in the tutorial, but it may be easier to take everything apart before it’s installed. When you’re doing your initial sanding, you won’t be removing any previous stain or color, but it’s still a good idea to sand, just so you’re sure you have a nice smooth foundation. And primer is very important too on unfinished wood, to give the paint an even finish. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions along the way…

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  37. I love your tutorial! I am going to paint my cabinets this spring/summer – good advise about the paint type – non- leveling – that makes scents. Just wondering about the back side of the cabinet door – did you paint that first then paint the front side? I didn’t see what order you might have done that in. Thanks!!

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    • Thanks Kathie! You can do the front and back in any order you choose, but I recommend starting on the backs first. That way you can iron out your technique on the places that won’t be seen as much. (I felt like it took me one or two doors to figure out what I was doing!) Also, that gives the backs longer to cure before reattaching them. Best of luck to you on your project! Don’t hesitate to ask if you have questions along the way…

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  38. Hi! Thank you for the thorough tutorial. I’m in the middle of painting my oak cabinets white, so this has helped me a lot. Although, I have an issue.
    I’m not sure I’ll get an answer but I thought I’d give it a try. I have a question about caulking. Did it came apart now that you’re finished with the kitchen? I was about to caulk between primed cabinets and my husband says he would not do it in my place as the wood is moving and all the caulk will rip.

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    • That’s a great question Ginie. Are your cabinets new? When they’re brand new, they will still go through some “curing” but if you’ve had them a while, they shouldn’t move too much anymore. Caulk is ideal because it has a little “give” in it and can take some expanding and contracting without ripping. Mine hasn’t moved a bit and the caulk really helps with the overall clean look. Let me know what you decide, I’d love to hear back from you!

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      • Hi! Thank you for the reply! The cabinets are old. They were in great shape, although some screws were loose and I asked hubby to tighten them, thus bringing the boxes together…. Still I’m afraid of caulking, I don’t want it to crack after I’m done with painting. Hoping to enjoy the updated kitchen for years to come not redoing them again soon… So, I don’t know what to do. 🙂

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        • I totally understand. Here’s what I would do as a compromise. Since you’re going to have to put on a coat of primer and two coats of paint, do the primer and first coat, then stand back and see how it looks. If it looks OK to you, just skip the caulk. If you see the gaps, you can still put the caulk on before the final coat. Also, keep in mind that painted cabinets are always fixable. If you ever get a scratch or rip, you can just sand down that area and touch it up again.

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          • Thank so much! That’s a great idea! I’ll see what they look like after one coat of paint then I decide. 🙂

          • Hi Meredith, I thought I share my before after with you! I ended up caulking the gaps and so far they seem nice. I’ve been enjoying the “new” kitchen for a month now and I love it. Still need to add that crown moulding to finish it but the vast part of the job is done. 🙂 Thank you again for this great tutorial!!!

            https://instagram.com/p/3mz00xuRQo/?taken-by=ikinganagy

    • Ginie, I’d love to see your pics, but the link isn’t working. Will you tag me (@thepalettemuse) on the IG post? I’m so glad you’re happy with your results!

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  39. Did you encountered any problems with greasy spots on the cabinets and how did you deal with that problem.

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    • Hi Carmen, are you referring to greasy spots before painting? If so, yes, my cabinets had their fair share of grease on them! That’s what the Krud Kutter is for. I couldn’t believe how it cleaned them. Then a good coat of primer made sure that the paint had an even and clean surface to stick to. If you’re referring to grease spots after, they clean up easily with soap and water. Let me know if that doesn’t answer your question…

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  40. Thanks for the great tutorial! I have had my kitchen cabinet doors and drawers removed for a few months (there is something to say about open concept cabinets!), paint and supplies purchased but lost all ambition to do the work.
    We purchased new shaker style doors that are already primed and new hardware – except hinges. I decided to paint the ones we have and reuse them.
    I did not consider caulking like you did but that is a great idea! Adding caulk to my shopping list and the tube you posted is so easy to use for those hesitant about caulking use this tube! It gives you easy control
    Also, I noticed your under cabinet lights; another great idea! Would you mind sharing a link to the lights?
    Thanks again for the great tutorial and inspiring me to get moving on this project!!

    Reply

    • Thanks Jessica! I’m so glad to help you get back on track, it will be so worth it when you’re done! I can’t share a link to the lights I used because they’re pretty old, but let me do a little research and find another good option. (In fact, I’m about to update mine so I need to find them for myself anyway.) I’ll be back soon with some more info…

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      • Thanks so much! I appreciate the reply and look forward to info on the lights. I will share pics of our before and after too if interested. Although it may be a little while…

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  41. Great Job on the transformation. I’m almost done with my Mom’s kitchen and it’s definitely a labor of love. Your right when you say there are no shortcut. I’ve found the prep to be the most time consuming and the most important. My Mom’s cabinets were custom made back in the 70’s and very dark. I had to do two coats of primer and then two coats of ASCP followed by lacquer and dark wax topped of with a final coat of lacquer. I love the look but my kitchen has too many cabinets to use chalk paint. I’ll be using BM Advantage. Lots of great ideas!! Thanks

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    • Thanks Sonia! I love ASCP, but there are definitely a lot of steps to that process. Best of luck to you with your makeover!

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  43. Meredith, thanks for this great article. I am getting ready to tackle painting my kitchen too. Turning them from that 80’s/90’s “honey oak” to white. Did you paint the INSIDE of the cabinets? Or just the front frames and doors? I would prefer NOT to paint the inside boxes, but am wondering how to paint the inside of the frames and get clean lines there, so it won’t look sloppy when you open the doors. Any thoughts?

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    • Hi Christal! No I decided not to paint the insides of the frames because mine were clean and in good shape, with light colored wood. I just painted the fronts and backs of the doors. I did mask off the insides so I could get a sharp clean paint line on the front without bleeding into the cabinet. I was really happy with this decision. It saved a lot of time and paint. Simply put painters tape along the inside edge of the frame, then roll or brush the paint on the outside. (I believe there’s a picture of this in the tutorial, but if not I’ll add one here.) Good luck on your project!

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  45. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the new space!!!! This is THE most detailed, informative article I’ve read and I am SO appreciative!! I think I can do this now!!

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  46. Do you mind me asking what brand and type of flooring you have in your kitchen? I am thinking of painting my cabinets white and I LOVE the combo! Thank you =)

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  47. Thanks for this great tutorial! I will be painting my cabinets soon and I’ve spent hours on Pinterest reading everyone’s tutorials. Your kitchen looks amazing! I’m so glad to see that you still have your white appliances. In almost every tutorial I have read the appliances have been replaced with stainless, which are beautiful, but I have white and since a couple of them are only a year old, I’m planning to keep them. Good job! 🙂

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    • Thank you Cheri! I was in the same boat with my appliances so I decided to keep them, and I ended up really loving the whole white effect. Plus I read in a design magazine just last month that white appliances are becoming more popular again, so you’re on trend!

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  48. Hi!
    I wonder if your cabinets are made of real wood? I am not able to see the pictures. I have melamine cabinets and I wonder if it would work.

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    • Hi Anne, I’m not sure if this method would work on melamine, but I think I’ve seen other bloggers do some version of it. You might try searching for their tutorials. Good luck!

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  50. You did a great job with instsructions. It looks beautiful. Here is my question. You said you used Benjamin Moore Alkyd and then you said valspar. Which one id you use? I am interested in painting the kitchen cabinets.

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    • Hi Bobbie, what I meant by that is I picked a color out of the Valspar line, but then I went to Ben Moore and had them use that color formula in their paint. Does that make sense? (Most brands of paint have access to other brands’ color formulas.)

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  51. It looks like you did not paint the interior or the shelves inside the cabinets. Is that a correct assumption? Did you paint underneath the cabinets?

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    • That’s correct. I did not paint the inside shelves. My cabinets were fairly new and the interiors were in great shape, and had light-colored wood already, so I didn’t need to paint them. I did, however, paint the underside of the top cabinets, so that shorter people (like me!) wouldn’t see a different color looking from below.

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  52. I like your kitchen cabinet makeover !
    In a couple of weeks I am going to do the same thing to the kitchen cabinets in my house trailer. With less than 1/2 of the cabinets that you had to refinish, It will probably be a lot easier for me to handle .

    The only thing that worries me is that I purchased the proper paint. I have Valspar Optimus in a semi-gloss(that is what the people at the hardware store told me to use .You used an alkyd base . I hate to waste this paint and buy more paint ,but I think that it might be wise ,for me to have a decent job in the end ?

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    • Hi Gary, I apologize for taking so long to respond! Have you already decided about your paint? I don’t know anything about the Optimus line, but I do love Valspar paint. Their products are very good. I went with Ben Moore in this case because I wanted a self-leveling paint. Without the self-leveling aspect, you might get a few more brush marks, but that won’t be the end of the world. And the alkyd means that the finish will be a little more durable than with latex. So those are the two things to consider, but I know what you mean about hating to waste the paint. I’d love to hear how it works out for you!

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  53. There is one thing I would like to offer on saving old hardware. If the hardware, like the hinges, are painted with latex paint you can boil it off, not completely, but it will soften it enough to brush it off with a still brush. I used a hard surface pan, covered the hinges with water and boiled them until the paint was soft enough to peel. This too a while so don’t give up, you may need to add a little hot water to keep the hinges covered. Then I held them with a hot mitt and brush with a stiff brush. It did a good job, but I worked at it with the brush and even used a wooden toothpick for some of the tight spots. Anyway, that’s what saved me a lot of money as well.

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    • That’s a great money saving idea Pat! Also, the Krud Kutter that I mention here for cleaning the cabinets will help take off old latex paint, so you can use that too if the boiling doesn’t completely work.

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  54. I absolutely love, love, love your kitchen Meredith. Thank you so much for sharing your in depth instructions…this is a project on our to do list and I will definitely be sharing your post with my hubby.

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    • It’s held up great! Full disclosure: I’ve since moved from the house, but before we moved we lived with the new kitchen for a little over a year. The paint held up great. I did have to do some minor touch ups in high traffic areas, but only for tiny little nicks in the paint that took less than a minute to fix.

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  56. I’m curious myself about how well the paint it holding up. I use my kitchen constantly and want to make sure that it stays on really well.

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  57. Looks amazing and really helpful info! I want to paint my kitchen cabinets white but have heard that it’s common for them to yellow after a few years. Did you take any steps to prevent yellowing? Thank you!

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    • Hi Keri, from my understanding, the yellowing comes from using the wrong type of polyurethane as a finishing coat. This method uses no additional finishing coat, and Benjamin Moore paint should hold it’s color indefinitely, so it shouldn’t be a problem. Just don’t coat it with anything and you should be fine.

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  58. Hi I happened upon your post when researching painting kitchen cabinets. I’m really nervous/hesitant about DIY vs. professionally having painted. After, reading your post I do feel better. Just a couple questions- what primer did you use? Did you need to have it tinted since cabinets appear white and primer is white? Also, most articles I’ve read do not recommend rollers versus brushing on paint, so I’m confused about that also. Can you elaborate on your choice of roller versus brush, please. When painting large cabinet boxes any recommendations to avoid start/stop marks? For example- large pantry cabinet side. Thanks!!

    Reply

    • Hi Cheryl! I apologize for taking so long to reply. For some reason your comment didn’t come through to me till now. Here are some answers for you… I used the Benjamin Moore Advance primer, with no tint since I was painting with white. I like the roller for even, fast paint application. With this type of paint and a mohair roller, you don’t get that bumpy surface that is usually the reason people don’t use rollers. Also, this paint will minimize your stop/start marks. (Very good question, by the way!) The paint takes a little longer to dry, which means your earlier brush strokes won’t be dry yet by the time you brush or roll on the new ones, which is what causes that problem. Just try to do a large area all in one sitting, and you’ll be fine with this paint. Good luck!

      Reply

  61. Do you have an update on your cabinets? I am wanting to paint my cabinets, but debating on what technique to use. I found one that required no sanding and hers have held up for over a year!
    Is there a reason you don’t suggest a poly top coat?

    Reply

  62. Absolutely beautiful! I’m in the very beginning stages of my kitchen makeover. I am curious to know what you think about Valspar Cabinet Paint from Lowe’s?

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    • Hello I am painting a set of cabinets for a customer right now and i played with that valspar cabinet stuff and it was no good. very liquefied and didn’t cover or stick well i stopped after one and peeled it off after it dried. after looking online the reviews for it were same as mine. Valspar in general is a crap product. I agree with this post about the Benjamin Moore Advance paint. That’s a very high quality paint with coverage and self leveling ability. That’s the exact paint i am currently using too. Also Sherwin Williams has a product called SW Pro-Classic that’s comparable to the BM Advance so either of those are great choices. Yes they are expensive. Yes they will last longer in every aspect of painting than a cheaper low quality valspar paint will. So in the end you get what you pay for with paint. Don’t try and cut corners especially with the amount of work it takes to do this type of job. Quality work lasts just as quality paint lasts. Hope that helps and good luck!!!

      Reply

    • Hi Sondra, I’m glad Joel had a good answer about the Valspar because I don’t have any experience with it. I’ve seen the SW Pro-classic a few times, and haven’t been impressed personally. But that may be because the people using it didn’t prepare their cabinets correctly. If you’re looking for another option, I have an updated post here about my second kitchen that I’ve painted: https://thepalettemuse.com/best-way-paint-kitchen-cabinets/

      I would definitely recommend the new method over this one, especially if you’re not into doing a lot of sanding and prep work!

      Reply

  63. Very impressive to do this yourself!! I run my home improvement business and i just finished painting a set of kitchen cabinets for a customer. This is not an easy thing to do. It requires skill and a lot of patience. I loved the part about professional results only come from professional labor, putting in the work will always get you the right outcome. I personally sprayed the doors and drawer fronts, but i have a quality spray gun necessary for this type of job. Awesome work. I know plenty of people who wouldn’t have the guts to try this them self.

    Reply

    • Thanks Joel! And thanks for answering Sondra’s question too. I would love to try a sprayer some time, but I know the learning curve would be a little more than I’d want to take on for a project like this.

      Reply

  64. Hi you have done a great job! I was just wondering, after sanding them once in the beginning why do you need to sand after primer and then after first coat of paint?

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  66. Your tutorial is hands down THE BEST!!! I’ve been contemplating this project for a few years, yes, years 😉 After researching the do’s and don’t ad nauseam, I’m now in the thick of it and keep going back to your post as I run into those inevitable snags we run into when doing a project for the 1st time. And your advice and tutorials are spot on! Honestly, if I had just printed this out from the get go and followed to the T, there would have been no snags! So, thank you for taking the time to walk through this so thoroughly, because in a project like this, those little details will make or break your project! So this morning I’m heading to the store for that Mohair roller you recommended 😉 because I’ve just discovered cutting corners on this project isn’t an option if you want a professional finish.

    Reply

    • Thank you Laurie! You’re so right, it really is all about the details. I know your project will turn out great since you are obviously taking the time to do things right. It will be worth it in the end!

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  67. Yours is the best cabinet painting tutorial I’ve seen! I agree that all the preparation pays off. I painted my cabinets 18 years ago (including insides) and did TONS of sanding. At that time the best paint available for the job was oil based so the paint has yellowed a little and I used 4 inch foam rollers.. Still, all the prep was worth as my cabinets are still good after all these years. Only recently have I had to do a little touching up to shelf edges. We’ll be moving soon to another house that needs a kitchen redo so more cabinet painting is in my future! This time I’ll use the paint you recommend. (I don’t want oil fumes but I do want the easier clean up!). One question: Why did you choose mohair rollers rather than foam?

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  68. Thank you! Yep, you gotta get pretty friendly with the sander! I used mohair because I’ve had problems in past furniture painting projects with air bubbles from the foam rollers. I think you could use foam (especially if that’s what you’re used to), but just be careful to load it correctly with paint. One thing though, the mohair was not expensive, just $4 for 2 four inch rollers. I think that was about the same as the foam rollers, and I just loved how they rolled the paint on. Like butter!

    Reply

  69. I am a little last on this project, but you did a fantastic job. Your tutorial was the best I have seen and believe me, I have been contemplating this for about a year. One question, can you use a paint sprayer for this project. I recently purchased one for another project and loved the ease of it.

    Thank you for the before and after pics. Love your kitchen, I am jealous.

    Reply

  70. Thank you Dee! Yes, you could use a sprayer if you’re comfortable with them. Personally, I love the feel of a brush in my hands, but there were several times along the way that I had to admit that a sprayer would be faster. You just have to be so careful not to over-spray. If you get too much paint on, and then stand the door up to dry, you’ll get drips. The self-leveling paint is great for getting an even finish with no marks, but it takes longer to dry, so it’s better if you have lots of horizontal space to lay your doors on while painting and drying. It could definitely be done this way though. Good luck with yours!

    Reply

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