Answering all your burning questions about my painted kitchen cabinets, and how the finish has stood the test of time and heavy use.
There sure are a lot of ugly, outdated kitchen cabinets out there! How do I know? Ever since I wrote this post about how to paint your kitchen cabinets, I've heard from approximately 300 of you who are thinking of doing the same thing.
In fact, I've had so many questions over the past year about my painted kitchen cabinets, that I thought now would be a good time to answer them all together in one place, as well as let you know how the cabinets' paint job is holding up.
Fun FAQ's: Painted Kitchen Cabinets
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If you haven't read the original post yet, definitely go back and read The Best Way to Paint Kitchen Cabinets first so you'll have the basic information. I won't repeat the process here, because that would make for a super-long and probably pretty redundant blog post.
Consider this the "further reading" assignment to go along with the essentials included in the first post.
Before we get to the questions, let me answer the big ones, which are "How are they holding up?" and "Would you do it this way again?"
How's the paint job holding up?
These painted cabinets are rock stars. I can't believe how well this finish has performed. It's been almost a year and a half, and they look brand new.
(To be fair, the cabinets themselves don't really look brand new since the style is pretty dated, but the finish looks clean and new, which gives the overall effect of a new kitchen.)
I've had to touch up a couple of dings, mostly on the doors under the sink, where my trash can lives. But it's been several months since I even had to do that. I think if I had it to do over again, an extra coat on the edges of those doors would have prevented that.
And there's one spot over my stove where the paint has bubbled and cracked a little bit. I'm pretty sure that comes from it being a high-grease-residue area. Had I thought about it, I would have hit that area extra hard with the Krud Kutter before painting.
I think I'll be able to easily fill and repaint that. Here it is at a more realistic viewing angle, so you can see what it looks like normally.
Would I do it again?
Absolutely. In fact, I'm about to give my mother-in-law's kitchen the same treatment. I'll be sure to share some photos from that makeover on Instagram.
I also used the same kind of paint on my bathroom cabinets in this post, with great results.
Thanks to the DecoArt Satin Enamels' special formula, this was a much easier process than the traditional way to sand, prime, paint, and seal your cabinets.
Be sure to check my original post for more info about the method and the product, because it's the key to this whole process.
Update: I've written a new updated cabinet painting tutorial that covers all the details of the products and processes to make this project easier. Check it out before painting your cabinets!
Now, read on to get all the juicy details that have come up over the last year or so...
Painted Kitchen Cabinet FAQs
What kind of primer is that?
DecoArt makes a primer for their Satin Enamels paint. It's called Americana Decor Stain Blocker/Sealer. It keeps the wood tannins from bleeding through the paint and prepares the surface for good paint adherence. It's not a sealer for using on top of the paint, but as a base coat.
Update: As of March 2020, I've been informed that the DecoArt primer is no longer available. If you feel like you need to prime your cabinets, I recommend Zinsser BIN Advanced Primer. I've used it on all sorts of wood painting projects and it works great!
Do I need to prime before painting?
You may not need to prime at all. The Satin Enamels paint is specially formulated for wood cabinetry and furniture, and as long as your cabinets are in good shape, you could probably skip that step.
If your wood is old, dried out, or stained from tannins or wood knots, you might want to try a primer first, especially if you're painting white over dark wood.
Otherwise, I can tell you that I've used Satin Enamels in several other cabinet and furniture projects with no primer, and no problems!
Could I use a different kind of paint?
There are lots of different ways of painting cabinets, but for this method I would only recommend using DecoArt's Satin Enamels, or Valspar or Behr Cabinet and Furniture Enamel. These paints are specially formulated for this kind of project, and don't require sanding.
With other paint, you'll need to do a lot more sanding, prepping, and sealing. You can get Satin Enamels at most hobby/craft stores (Like Hobby Lobby who always offers a 40% off coupon!), on Amazon, and directly through DecoArt's website. You can get Valspar Cabinet Enamel at Lowe's and Behr Cabinet Enamel at Home Depot.
With DecoArt, you can also mix colors together, like I did, if you want a shade that they don't specifically offer. The Behr and Valspar paint can be mixed in all different colors.
How many jars did you use?
I used about 10 jars of Satin Enamel paint. DecoArt states on the label that a jar will cover about 20 square feet, and I found this to be accurate.
How many coats of paint did you put on?
I used one coat of primer, and 2-3 light coats of paint. That is, most of the cabinets got 2 coats of paint, but certain spots required a 3rd touch up. And as I mentioned above, I wish I would have done a third coat on a few of the more high-traffic edges.
Don't you still have to sand between coats?
The label recommends lightly sanding between coats, but I totally skipped this step. I wanted to see how it turned out with no sanding, and the results were great. So I feel confident saying that this is a completely sanding-free process.
I suppose if you were painting over certain types of more porous wood, it might help to sand between coats. For me, not having the mess and time spent on sanding is at least half the appeal of this process.
Don't you need a top coat or sealer?
No, you don't need any kind of top coat. I know other painting processes recommend a poly top coat, but Satin Enamels don't need it. Their finish is smooth and durable, and scrubabble (isn't that a word? My spell check tells me it's not, but I disagree) with no top coat or sealer.
Believe me, I've had to clean my fair share of spills off these cabinets, and everything wipes clean off.
Does this work on laminate, melamine, or other non-wood surfaces?
I can tell you I've used this on laminate myself with good results. I used it for this ceiling fan makeover, and it worked great. I've yet to see anything that DecoArt can't do. When in doubt, test it out!
Updated Oct. 2019: YES you can use Satin Enamels on laminate, but switch the primer for either Zinsser BIN or Chalky Finish paint. I've been asked this question so many times, I painted the cabinets in my camper using this method, just so I could write a whole new post on How to Paint Laminate Cabinets.
Can I paint over previously painted wood?
Yes. However, you need to make sure the painted surface is clean and in good condition. If it's in good condition, you don't need the primer, unless you're making a drastic change in color.
For instance, if you're painting white over dark red, you might want to use a white primer first, just to save on paint coats.
Did you paint the insides?
True confessions, I didn't paint the insides of my cabinets, or the insides of the doors. Yes, I know I probably should have at least done the doors, but I really wanted to finish this project and move on.
I still plan on going back and doing it, but I tend to be a bit of a procrastinator, and they don't bother me when the doors are closed. I even still have the little tape stickers on them that I used to mark which door went to which cabinet.
Now you know the behind-the-scenes truth. Please don't judge me. And please do paint the inside of your doors.
Update: I did finally paint the inside of the doors. I should have done that years ago!
Does the wood grain show through?
Yes, but in a really pretty and subtle way.
Personally, I like seeing a hint of the wood grain, and knowing they are solid wood cabinets and not some cheap laminate. But that's just a personal preference.
If you want to totally get rid of your wood grain, my friend Rachel has a great tutorial on how to do that.
Where did you get the hardware?
I love my hardware! All the hinges, knobs and pulls were from D. Lawless Hardware. They're a great resource for any kind of hardware, especially historical or harder to find pieces. Their prices are great and their customer service is the best!
What color are your kitchen walls?
I love this question! The walls are painted in Benjamin Moore's Sea Salt. I searched high and low for the perfect gray, and I have loved this one every moment that I've had it.
How could you possibly think it was a good idea to paint perfectly good wood cabinets? (Imagine this one in an irritated voice.)
Ok look. I know that some of you think it's a crime to paint over solid wood cabinets. (I know this because you told me. Emphatically.) And truth be told, I had to give it a lot of thought myself.
When my house was built, this kitchen was THE BOMB. Only they probably didn't call it that back then. Maybe it was the cat's meow. Maybe it was just downright groovy.
But guess what, it's not any more.
When you hate your kitchen, you have two choices: tear it out or paint it over. Nowhere in either of those two choices do your righteous dark orangey oak cabinets get saved in their current state.
So grab your paint brush and don't look back. The seventies had their day. Now it's yours.
Painted Kitchen Cabinet Resources
If you've made it this far, you know everything I know about painting kitchen cabinets. In case you're ready to get started, I'm including links here to all the products I used, so you don't have to go back and read through the original post again.
Mohair Roller and Roller Handle
Hardware - if you're looking for the exact hardware I used, here it is: White Hinges, Satin Nickel Drawer Pulls, Satin Nickel Knobs
One Last Thing...
If you're wondering how to avoid some common cabinet painting pitfalls, be sure to check out my post on how not to paint cabinets.
Thanks again for sticking with me. I know this is a lot of information, but painting kitchen cabinets is a job you only want to do once, so kudos on doing your research. Now go for it!
You asked, and I'm answering! This post is part of Fun FAQ's: a month long series of Frequently Asked Questions and updates on different projects. Read on for more updates on my concrete countertops, my barn doors, and my lighted headboard. And as always, I love to hear from you in the comments!
The Best Way to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Painting kitchen cabinets can be overwhelming, but here's how to make it easier. You don't have to empty out your whole kitchen because no sanding is required!
Instructions
- Clean cabinet doors with Krud Kutter or hot soapy water.
- If needed, prime cabinet door fronts with Zinsser BIN Advanced Primer, using roller and paintbrush. Don't worry about the edges of the doors yet.
- Paint cabinet door fronts with Satin Enamel, using roller and paintbrush.
- Label cabinet doors and remove them from the frames of the cabinets.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the cabinet frames.
- Paint the edges and insides of the cabinet doors.
- Reattach doors.
Notes
It may seem counter-intuitive to leave the doors on the cabinets when painting them, but it gives you a perfect work space, and this paint will not drip or run so you don't need them to be horizontal while painting. They can dry in place, all while leaving your kitchen workable during the project.
Recommended Products
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Jeri Walker (@JeriWB) says
My love did a pretty decent job on his kitchen cabinets, but he skipped a few important steps and did a couple of things out of order. If they were my cabinets, I would have followed your post tips exactly, but at least a good deal of your information helped me to more of the job correctly 😉
Meredith says
Glad it helped, at least a little bit!
JULIE GARCIA says
I'm wanting to paint my wood cupboards...but when I do, hopefully sooner than later, I think I'm going to flip the doors. The inside of the doors are simple and straight lined, so much better! !! I know it will look so much better!!! Just a thought! !! Thanks for sharing and your insights! !
Meredith says
Hi Julie, that's a great idea! I would never have thought of that, and I'm curious to know how it works with moving the hinges. Come back and let us know when you're done!
Sarah Baughman says
I love the way your cabinets turned out! This is the inspiration for my own kitchen redo soon. I was curious why you chose to mix the pure white and sable instead of using the warm white color available? I love the warm color of yours, but would prefer to buy the color pre mixed so I don’t get the formula off (my kitchen isn’t as big as yours). Do you think the pre-made warm white is similar to yours? Thanks for the inspiration!!
Meredith says
Thanks Sarah! That's a great question. I mixed mine because the warm white wasn't available then. I'm fact, this is the first I've heard of it! And yes, I can definitely see why you wouldn't want to mix your own colors. I'd recommend getting a small jar of the warm white and trying it out first to make sure it's the color you're going for. That way you can evaluate it in your own space. Best of luck on your project!
Judy says
Exactly how many cabinets do you have.
Meredith says
I have about 20, depending on how you count the pantry and oven cabinets.
Lisa says
How many jars of the clear primer did you need? Also, how many jars of the enamel paint? My kitchen is similar size to yours!
Meredith says
I think I used about 3-4 jars of the primer and about 10 jars of the paint. Each jar covers about 20 square feet, if that helps.
Erika St John says
How did you go through your process of figuring out your custom color? How did you keep track of your amount of sable added into the white and how many sample coats did you apply before you arrived at your desired shade? Did you just paint over the trial areas (any issues with coverage)?
Meredith says
Great questions, Erika! I knew how much paint I needed (10 jars), so I dumped all 10 jars of white in a bucket. Then I started adding Sable 1 tablespoon at a time (keeping track of how many), and stirring thoroughly in between. When I thought I was getting close to the right color, I tested a spot on a cabinet door. I probably did 2-3 tests before I decided it was right. It was easy to cover over the test spots, since they were similar in color and I needed to do a couple of coats anyway. Hope that helps!
Mary says
Is the paint easy to wipe down and clean?
Meredith says
Yes! With a husband and two kids, I need to wipe these down pretty often. The paint holds up beautifully and is easy to wipe spills and grime right off.
Beth says
No sanding required? How many coats did you apply?
Meredith says
Yep, no sanding! That's the beauty of this product. And I used one coat of the stainblocker and two coats of paint.
elizabeth triolo says
Hi, I have been wabting to do these old cabinets vut in the center of them is a large sq of fornica ,& the rest of the cabinets are oak with alot of coats of varnish what do I do with these
Meredith says
Do you mean the middle panel of the door is Formica? I would still use this method and paint everything the same, but try it on one first to make sure it works. Let us know what happens!
Lisa Newinski says
This is amazing. I tried this and I am amazed how easy this is and how it has brightened up my kitchen. The only item is when I look up close I am still seeing a color difference on the grain of my oak cabinets. I am okay with seeing the grain I would like to remove the color difference. I used the pure white paint. I have only done 2 coats do I need to do a 3rd coat. Any suggestions? Thank you for posting this information.
Meredith says
Hi Lisa! Yes if you can see color variations through the paint, that means you need another coat. If your cabinets were pretty dark before, it can take extra coats to cover that up. Glad you're liking it so far!
Mike T says
I am considering painting our cabinets, did you use special brushes, and did you get brush marks?
Meredith says
Hi Mike, I did not get brush marks which is partly due to product and partly due to process. If you use a mohair roller and very soft brush, that will take care of most of the problems people usually have with brush marks. But you also have to be careful not to drag your brush or roller through paint that is already starting to dry. That's where most brush marks come from. If you work in small sections and roll/brush toward the last section, you'll save yourself most of the risk of brush marks. You can always sand in between coats if you feel like the brush marks are showing.
Lorraine says
This is so awesome!! Thank you so very much for all the tips, tricks and techniques and even the item links!! We have a ton of cabinets so this is exactly what I've been looking for!! Thanks again!!
Meredith says
I'm so glad this was helpful Lorraine! You're going to be so glad you did it. Best of luck with your project!
Heather says
So I painted my kitchens cabinets a few years back. I bought the Cabinet Transformation Kit from Home Depot to do this. OMG, the steps & process, not as simple as it states. Firstly, my cabinets were manufactured, so not natural wood like yours. Now they are needing to be repainted, b/c they are horrible. I want the professional smooth look, should I use a sprayer this time & since they're already painted & sealed should I use a sander to remove products.
Meredith says
Hi Heather, yes I would recommend sanding off the previous product, or you might see the lines under your new paint. You could definitely use a sprayer, but if you're intimidated by that (as I was) you can get great effects from following the steps in my tutorial (link at the beginning of this post) being sure to use soft brushes and rollers. Good luck on your project!
Kayla says
Oh I am so glad I stumbled across this! Would you recommend using this same technique and paint on hutches and a kitchen table? We are moving and I'm ready to repaint everything while I'm doing the cabinets! Thanks so much!
Meredith says
Yes! This exact method works great for any kind of wood furniture. The only thing I might add is a couple of coats of PolyAcrylic on the top of the kitchen table, since it will get a lot of wear and tear. So glad this was helpful to you!
Laynis says
Hello, my kitchen cabinets are solid wood, but they have a clear glossy sealer that is hard and smooth. Like a shell, and it’s peeling in some places. Could I use this product to do a fast job or should I still go with the long process of stripping and sanding?
Meredith says
Hi Laynis, unfortunately since your previous finish is peeling you'll still need to strip that varnish before you can paint. Otherwise it will peel off your new paint as well, which would be a major bummer!
Emily says
Hello! I am moving into my first house within the next week and am painting the very dark cabinets. We are trying to get the improvements done in a timely manner so I can live in the house before I have to leave for college in August. I was wondering if the primer really takes the full 5-7 days to cure and how would I go about painting the inside of the cabinet doors. I know paint can be a waiting game but I'm hoping to speed the process along a little if possible!
Meredith says
Hi Emily, that's a great question. I live in a pretty dry climate, so it didn't seem to take as long for the primer to cure. You might be able to get away with less time too, but just be aware that the point of the primer is to help the paint adhere to the wood, so I wouldn't rush it too much. You could save some time by not priming the inside of the cabinets, since they tend to get less wear and tear. And you might want to wait to paint the insides until you're done with the outsides and everything has dried and is rehung. That way you can open a door, paint it, and leave it open to dry, rather than having all your doors laying around drying on both sides. Does that help?
Michele Gregg says
I pulled the trigger to paint my oak white. EEEK !!! I never did anything like this. Onsection one, the island. The trim came out darker than the cabinet door, but hoping the 2nd coat will even it out. ??? Also if I wanted to seal them what do u recommend if anything ?? All this work, they have to stay nice.
Pat says
could i use a airless paint sprayer for this job
Meredith says
Yes I'm sure you could. I'm not very good with my sprayer, so I prefer to brush it on, but if you like the sprayer, go for it and let us know how it turned out!
Sean C says
Painting your cabinets are a nice cost effective way to give your kitchen a modern face lift and you nailed it! Looks amazing!
Melissa Poland says
I'm wanting to use this technique to paint my kitchen cabinets but the stainblocker/primer is no longer available. Do you have another suggestion to use?
Meredith says
Hi Melissa, I'm suddenly hearing that from a lot of people, so I'm currently in the process of rewriting these posts with my favorite primer for wood, Zinsser BIN primer. You can find it here: https://amzn.to/2JubyZn
Bonus - it dries in 45 minutes, not the days that the DecoArt sealer requires, so your project should go even quicker! I'll be updating these posts tomorrow, but I wanted to get back to you ASAP. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
Doris Jerez says
I can't find the DecoArt Satin enamel, what else would work?
Meredith says
Hi Doris, if you can't find the DecoArt product, I'd recommend Valspar Furniture Enamel paint. You can find it at Lowe's and have it mixed in any color you like. It tends to be a little drippier than the DecoArt, so just watch for drips and excess paint as you're applying it.
Doris Jerez says
Thank you so much.
Doris Jerez says
I DID IT!!! Thank you. WE LOVE IT!
Meredith says
I'm so glad to hear that! Thank you for sharing!
Carol Walker says
I love your cabinets. We are buying a house that has dark oak kitchen cabinets. I’m thinking of painting them a light gray or blue. Would you add the gray or blue to the white to get the color wanted? I am not very artistic and I have a hard time with things like this. Thank you for your help.
Meredith says
Hi Carol! I know color can be intimidating. What I would actually recommend for you is to go to Lowes or Home Depot, pick a color you like from their paint department, and have it mixed in "Cabinet Enamel" instead of using the DecoArt paint and trying to mix your own colors. You can see more about that process in this post (scroll down to "option 2"): https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/
Elyse says
Did anyone try this on their bathroom cabinets? I’m worried about moisture being an issue with the paint staying on or chipping off much sooner /: