Have you been thinking of painting your kitchen cabinets, but can't stomach the thought of all the mess, upheaval, and general mayhem that goes along with such a big project? Then I have good news for you!
Now there's an easier way to paint kitchen cabinets, without destroying the heart of your home in the process.
(THANK YOU to DecoArt and D. Lawless Hardware for providing supplies for this project!)
The Absolute Best Way to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
You may remember I already wrote a post on the "right" way to paint your kitchen cabinets, otherwise known as the world's longest kitchen cabinet painting tutorial. After I published my original post, the question I heard most often was "Is there an easier way?"
Well, because I love you guys, I set out to answer that question. I had to buy a new house with ugly dark outdated oak kitchen cabinets, just to satisfy your curiosity. It was a sacrifice, but one I was willing to make. Just for you, my dear readers.
So now, after trying out a new product and a completely different process, I have the new and improved "best" way to redo your kitchen cabinets.
What makes it the best, you ask? It's faster, easier, and with WAY less mess. My previous process still works well, but if you're wanting a quicker turnaround, this will be the process for you.
Update: After living with my cabinets for several years, I've found that this new easier way holds up just as well as the previous method. So there's no reason to feel like you're taking a shortcut. I can definitely say this is my favorite way to paint cabinets now!
DecoArt Satin Enamel Cabinet Paint
In the past, if you wanted to paint cabinets or furniture, you had to strip, sand and generally kill yourself getting a good surface ready to paint on. Now, with DecoArt's Satin Enamel paints, you don't need to do any of that. Simply clean the surfaces, prime if needed (we'll talk about that in a minute), and paint.
Kitchen Cabinet Painting Hack
That sounds great, but here's the really great part... since you're not sanding, you don't need to remove all your items from your cabinets. That, my friends, is the key to making this project easier.
You don't have to change anything about the way your kitchen functions until you're almost done with the whole process. No more pulling everything out of your kitchen, then hunting through piles on your living room floor for that pan that you need to make dinner.
Everything stays in place, and you can cook dinner every night, after working on the cabinets during the day. (Oh wait, that doesn't sound good at all. Let's just say you could cook dinner, but don't tell your husband that, and make him take you out for dinner.)
New Cabinets in 7 Steps!
Here's the actual step-by-step process.
- Clean cabinet doors
- Prime cabinet door fronts and edges, if needed
- Paint cabinet door fronts
- Remove cabinet doors
- Clean, prime, and paint frames
- Paint edges of cabinet doors
- Reattach doors
That's it! Sounds easy, right? Well, that would be a pretty short blog post, so here's how to do it in full detail. (Be sure to read all the tips at the end!)
Clean Cabinet Doors
All you need for this step is a good degreaser, such as Krud Kutter, and a clean rag. If you can't find Krud Kutter in your cleaning aisle, look at the hardware store. It's a heavy duty, but non-toxic cleaner that will remove any grease buildup that can get in the way of your paint.
Simply spray on and wipe off with a very slightly damp clean rag or paper towel. Tougher spots may need a little elbow grease. Be sure to clean every paintable surface well so your paint will stick.
Prime Cabinet Doors - if needed
Not all cabinets will need to be primed before painting, if you're using DecoArt's Satin Enamels. Satin Enamels are formulated to adhere well to wood, and I've seen this to be true in multiple cabinet and furniture painting projects.
If your wood is old, has stains or dark knots, or seems dried out (like here in the NM Desert), it can be a good idea to prime first. Primer helps with adhesion and stain blocking, so it helps your paint stick better, look better, and go farther.
This Zinsser BIN Advanced Primer is what I recommend for painting over wood, whether it's cabinets, molding, or doors. It does the best job of stain-blocking out of any primer I've ever used.
Plus it dries in 45 minutes, so you can get on with your project quickly!
Full disclosure - when I painted these cabinets, I used DecoArt's Stainblocker, but it's not available for purchase anymore. I've use the BIN primer in several other wood projects and I know it will do the same job.
Paint Cabinet Door Fronts
I can hear you now, asking "Meredith, didn't you forget a step? Who would paint their doors while they're still hanging?" Well, I would. And you should too. It saves TONS of space, not to mention time spent moving doors around onto work surfaces.
Now, if you were using traditional latex or oil paint, I would not recommend painting vertically, due to the risk of drips. But this Satin Enamel paint holds it shape better while it's wet, which means it goes on smooth, and has the perfect drying time.
Drying time sounds like a weird thing to rave about, but it really makes all the difference in this type of project.
You need a paint that dries slowly enough that it has time to even itself out and get rid of brush strokes (we call this self-leveling), but not so slowly that it runs and drips and can't be touched for days.
Seriously, I can't say enough about how important this one property is to making this project so easy. Of course, you need to be careful to apply the paint evenly, and look out for all those corners where paint can build up and lead to drips.
The other great thing about this paint is you can re-coat as soon as it's dry, so conceivably you could do all your coats (2 to 3) in one day, if you were so motivated. I was not.
It took me a few days, but at least I didn't have to worry about my kitchen being torn up in the meantime.
One last tip about painting doors... If your doors have inlays, like mine did, paint those first with a brush before painting the large flat areas with a mohair roller or large brush.
This will allow you to be careful in all the nooks and crannies, and still achieve a good clean paint job without having to stop in the middle and do the detail work.
Removing Cabinet Doors
The absolute first thing you must do before removing your cabinet doors is LABEL them. Trust me, this is the one tip you should not skip over.
I know you think you'll remember where everything goes, but you will not. You will, however, thank me later if you label your doors clearly. I use the raffle ticket method shown below.
Now you're ready to remove the doors. For this part, you may want to find a helper. That is, unless you're unnaturally adept at holding a solid wood slab in one hand and operating a power drill in the other, all while balancing on one knee on the countertop, with the other foot straddling a sink full of dirty dishes.
As it turns out, I was not particularly gifted at this skill. Unfortunately for my knee and my dishes. Hence, no photos of this part of the process.
Simply unscrew the hinges and stack the doors along the wall or in your garage. If you're re-using your hinges, label them to go with the doors and save them for later.
I didn't want to re-use my old dingy brass hinges. I also didn't want to call attention to them, so I went hunting for something that would disappear into the white background of the cabinets. Did you know you can buy white hinges?
That's just what I needed, and I found them online at D. Lawless Hardware. If you haven't checked out D. Lawless yet, you should. They have a great selection, at great prices, and are just the nicest folks to work with. You'll see more of their hardware in a minute.
Clean, Prime, and Paint Frames
Once your doors are out of the way, you'll repeat the same cleaning, priming, and painting process as above, just on the frames this time. It sounds like a big job, but it really isn't.
The frames don't take up much space, so they won't take you long to finish. Just make sure you tape off any edges first, to make your life easier.
Paint Edges of Cabinet Doors
While you're working on your frames and waiting through drying times, you can paint around the edges of your cabinet doors.
You want to make sure the paint is good and dry on both the frame and the doors so they don't stick to each other once you attach the doors again, so leave plenty of time for this step.
This is also the time that you'll want to pull out your drawers and paint their edges too.
At this point, you remember why you can't have open shelving in your kitchen.
Reattach Doors
Once everything is finished and it's all good and dry, then you can rehang your doors and replace the drawers. (Sounds easy but involves more contortionist moves in mid-air, so enlist a partner if you can!)
Finally, add some fabulous hardware knobs and pulls, and you've got a brand new kitchen.
You're done! That wasn't so bad, now was it? You didn't have to remove a single dish from your cabinets, and everything got to stay in its place so you could use your kitchen as you worked little by little on it.
You didn't even have to spend a whole Saturday cleaning sawdust out of your cabinets before replacing your mixing bowls.
The family wasn't mad at their mom-induced chaos. Even your husband was impressed that all this magically happened in between meals. OK, well maybe that's stretching it a little, but you get the idea.
Resources
Note: these are affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase, I'll make a small commission at no extra charge to you.
Cabinet Painting Tips
This process absolutely works best with DecoArt Satin Enamel paint. (You can find it on their website, Amazon, or just about any craft/hobby store. I like Hobby Lobby because they always have a 40% off coupon.)
The paint's consistency and drying time allows you to work on the doors in place, and there is no sanding required. I do not recommend this method if you want to use regular latex or oil-based paint. See my earlier post if you want to do that.
Color
Don't fret if you can't find the color you want in the Satin Enamel paint. You can mix whatever color you like from the available colors in their line.
For my cabinets I used Bright White, mixed with Natural Sable. (The formula was 10 jars white, and 4 tablespoons sable.)
I wanted a soft warm white that wasn't too pure. Adding a little brown gave me exactly what I was going for.
Be sure to mix enough paint for your WHOLE project. You do not want to be trying to match colors when you run out of paint halfway through!
Brush Strokes
If you use a mohair roller, you shouldn't get any paint bubbles or roller texture. But if you do, simply drag a soft dry brush over the rolled area as soon as you're done with a section.
Move in the direction of the wood grain as you go, and any brush strokes will be almost invisible.
Hinges
If you're buying new hinges, make sure you measure your old ones accurately and check that the new hinges are exactly the same size and shape.
Small differences can add up to make a big problem in the end. If your house is older, you probably have the non-adjustable hinges that go right on top of the frames.
Fortunately it's pretty easy to replace these in a variety of colors. For my kitchen I didn't want the hinges to be visible, but I also didn't want to retool everything to add hidden hinges.
The solution was white hinges. They're not totally hidden, but they also don't call attention to themselves.
What About Laminate Cabinets?
And finally, does this work on laminate cabinets? Yes, with one little modification. If that's you, be sure to check out my newly updated post on how to paint laminate cabinets.
Now it's your turn... what's stopping you? And as always, let me know if you have any questions. I love to help! Well, I'm not actually going to come over and help you paint, but I'm happy to virtually help! In the meantime, here are the "After" photos for inspiration. Feel free to pin and share!
Update: I've had so many wonderful questions about this process and the Decoart and D. Lawless products, that I've written a follow-up post. Before you get started, be sure to check out the Frequently Asked Questions and How They're Holding Up post for all the details. And finally, I've also written a post on what not to do when painting cabinets about the most common mistakes and how to avoid them. Hopefully that one will save you some trouble along the way!
And finally, as if this wasn't enough information to digest, I've written a comprehensive cabinet painting ebook that answers most of the questions you'll find below and in the other FAQs post.
The biggest question is how to get the DecoArt products, which is becoming more of a problem lately. I answer that and what products I'm recommending instead in the book. If you're having trouble sourcing the right kind of paint for your cabinets, give it a read!
The Best Way to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Painting kitchen cabinets can be overwhelming, but here's how to make it easier. You don't have to empty out your whole kitchen because no sanding is required!
Instructions
- Clean cabinet doors with Krud Kutter or hot soapy water.
- If needed, prime cabinet door fronts with Zinsser BIN Advanced Primer, using roller and paintbrush. Don't worry about the edges of the doors yet.
- Paint cabinet door fronts with Satin Enamel, using roller and paintbrush.
- Label cabinet doors and remove them from the frames of the cabinets.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the cabinet frames.
- Paint the edges and insides of the cabinet doors.
- Reattach doors.
Notes
It may seem counter-intuitive to leave the doors on the cabinets when painting them, but it gives you a perfect work space, and this paint will not drip or run so you don't need them to be horizontal while painting. They can dry in place, all while leaving your kitchen workable during the project.
Recommended Products
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Meredith says
Thanks Sam! That's a great question. Each 8 ounce jar covers about 20 square feet, so one jar covered multiple cabinets. I think I used a total of 9 jars of paint and four jars of primer for this whole project. Not expensive at all, compared to decent quality latex paint.
Christine says
This looks awesome but I'd like to paint and then give the antique look. Is that possible?
Meredith says
By antique, do you mean sanding them down a little or glazing them? Chalk paint might be better suited to that kind of project, but I'd recommend trying it out on one first, to make sure the process works like you want. Good luck!
Heidi says
Hello Meredith, your kitchen looks amazing. My question is about the cure time, if i am painting a bookcase, how long should i wait before putting things back on the shelves?
Thank you
Meredith says
Hi Heidi, I would wait at least 24 hours but preferably more, depending on the humidity in your area. In a pinch, you can lay wax paper on the shelves first to keep the paint from sticking to your stuff.
Pati D. Moore says
This is my first Pinterest project I’ve tackled. I have cleaned my cabinets and used the sealer and started painting my cabinets tonight. The paint is very thick as it goes on the cabinets which leaves brush streaks. Is this normal? I am only maybe 1/3 of the way through with the first coat. I hope it won’t look so streaked when the second coat goes on. I ordered my paint from Amazon and got the same brand you used. Just curious if it’s normal for the paint to be that thick and did your first coat look streaked before applying the second coat?
Meredith says
Hi Pati, don't fear, streaks in the first coat are normal! You might find it a little easier to use a roller to do the larger sections. And you can cut down on streaks by using a soft brush and very light pressure. When you put the second coat on, you'll start to see those even out. You might even need three coats in some spots, especially if you're painting white over dark wood. As far as the thickness of the paint, it's hard to say without seeing yours. Is the paint thicker than the sealer? They should be about the same consistency. Write me back and let me know how it's going when you get a chance!
Pati D. Moore says
Thanks for your quick response to my questions. I have pretty much finished my painting finally. I work full time and have to work on my cabinets when I have any spare time. I actually had to put 4 coats on mine I guess because the wood was so dark and hard to cover. I ran out of paint for the 2nd time and will probably need to order at least one more for touch ups. I have not painted the back side of the cabinet doors but think it will probably look better if I do. But before I tackle that job I’m painting my kitchen walls and trim so it should look much better. I’ll send a pic when I get the walls done. Thank you!
Debbie Buchenroth says
This sounds fairly easy but if I don't want the oak grain to show through, can I use an oak filler before painting with the Deco Art paint?
Meredith says
Yes, I would think so! Maybe try a sample first to make sure the paint adheres correctly, but this Satin Enamels paint seems to stick to anything I try to paint, so I'm sure it will work. Let us know how it goes!
Annie says
Hi I love this. Can you tell me what color paint is on your walls as well? I like the combo with the cabinet color. Also, maybe I missed it, but how many decoart’s did you order for the cabinets?
Meredith says
Thanks Annie! The wall color is Benjamin Moore Sea Salt, and I love it! And each jar of paint will cover about 20 square feet, so in my kitchen that turned out to be 10 jars of paint and a little over 3 jars of primer. Hope that helps!
Hannah Fink says
Hey! I love what you’ve done with the cabinets and am interested in doing the same with mine. I’ve been able to read this article and then your follow up and had a quick question. The follow up mentioned sanding as part of the process but your original article didn’t include that detail and had “no sanding required” in the title. If I do this project, I want to do it the right way and have the cabinets still look beautiful down the road like yours. Do you suggest sanding prior to painting the cabinets?
Thanks so much!! Hannah 🙂
Meredith says
Hi Hannah! Thanks for taking the time to read through both posts! I personally don't think you need to sand at all. I mentioned it in the follow up piece because it is technically recommended by the manufacturer, but I really don't think it's necessary if your wood cabinets are in good shape. Maybe if you had peeling paint or varnish, or damaged wood, it would be a good idea to sand it down first, but otherwise I say go for it!
I've used this same process on my kitchen and two sets of bathroom vanities, with stellar results and no sanding at all. One thing I would say though is be sure to clean your cabinets really well first with Krud Kutter. That will make the biggest different to how well the paint adheres, especially to kitchen cabinets that tend to get a little cooking grease build-up over the years. Good luck on your project, you'll love it!
Bob says
Perhaps you've already addressed this, but I was wondering why you chose a mohair 4" roller as opposed to a foam one. I'm planning to paint our kitchen cabinets at home. Thank you for blogging your easier procedure. I have a guest bathroom that has the exact same oak inlaid cabinets so it's going to be my test are before attacking the kitchen. Looking forward to your advice!
Meredith says
That's a great idea to start with a smaller area first! I recommend the mohair because it gives a smoother finish than the foam. You could also use foam, followed by lightly dry brushing over it with a soft clean paintbrush in one direction. That will take care of any bubbles or marks left by the foam roller.
Rebecca says
Hi Meredith, love this idea. I want to start with these long pantry cabinet doors in my laundry area. When we bought our 59 year old house 7 years ago, the flipper did some “cosmetic” touches that were not- point in case- whatever enamel paint or coating they threw on these doors. Started peeling soon after we moved in. I really want to try your process ( not much of a DIYer...yet), but I do not want to have to sand or use some heavy duty chemical. Do you think the Krud Kutter & sealer would take care of the peeling parts? Is it possible to attach a photo? Thanks so much!
Rebecca
Meredith says
Hi Rebecca, unfortunately if you have peeling paint, you need to completely remove it first. There's no shortcut to this and if you try to paint over peeling or flaky paint, it will continue to peel off with your paint over it. I wish I had better news for you, but it's worth taking the time to do the prep work correctly before putting in the time painting. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!
Bob says
Thanks so much! I’ll keep you posted. ?
Tiya says
I tried the decoart on a table and a test cabinet area. The table turned out lumpy and bumpy, pulling up the first coat after more than enough drying time and still dents if something with a ridge or ring like a flower pot is set on it. After 6months. The test area dried too quickly as I was applying and ended up with an uneven surface I had to sand down to get smooth again. Thinking I should give this up so I don't ruin my cabinets! Help?
Meredith says
Wow, I'm sorry to hear that Tiya! What kind of surface was the table before you painted it? Stained wood or something else? I'm wondering if the sealer or polyurethane that was on it reacted with the paint? For the cabinet test area, did you use the primer first? I might need a little more info before advising you on how to proceed. Feel free to respond here or email me at [email protected]
Kimberly Caruana says
I'm having a hard time finding their primer through their site or Amazon. Can you recommend an alternative?
Meredith says
Hi Kimberly, you're not alone, I couldn't even find it on their own sales site. I think they may be discontinuing it, but I will reach out and ask the company. In the meantime, I must confess that I've since done multiple cabinet painting projects since this one, all without using the primer at all. I don't think it's completely necessary, so you might want to skip it altogether. Alternatively you could use Chalky Finish paint as a base coat. That's what I did when I repainted the laminate cabinets in my camper and it worked like a charm! You can see that post here if it helps: https://thepalettemuse.com/how-to-paint-laminate-cabinets-without-sanding/
Bob says
I was able to find it on a site called “CreateForLess” but it’s on back order. ?
Meredith says
Hi Bob, I'm sensing a theme here. Check out my reply to Kimberly above. I'll be reaching out to the company and updating the post as soon as I get an answer from them. Thanks for letting me know!
Bob says
You're welcome. Finished painting our cabinets last weekend. We ended up using 1 coat of the DecoArt blocker/sealer, 2 coats of primer (KILZ #) & 2 coats of the while DecoArt satin enamel. Love the paint. I took before & after pics but didn't know how to attach on your blog for you to see how great they turned out. : )
Thanks for all your help!
Meredith says
You're welcome Bob! I'm so glad you're happy with your transformation, and thanks for reporting back - that really helps all of us!
Brenda Luther says
Meridith, thank you so much for the information on easy way to paint kitchen cabinets. You mentioned leaving the cabinet doors up while painting them. Did you not paint the backside of the doors? I am a bit confused about what to do?
Thanks Brenda
Meredith says
Hi Brenda, great question! What I meant was to do the initial painting with the doors still attached. Further down in the tutorial it talks about removing them to paint the edges and backs. It's just easier to get the fronts painted while they're still attached.
Jillaine Comardo says
Hi, How many layers of paint did you end up using? I did everything you said. Made sure cupboards were super clean, used the primer waited 2 days then painted. I'm discouraged so the bottom cabinets haven't been touched Our paint literally scratched off when we were putting knobs back on. The paint is on the pricy side for the little jars. I didnt skimp but even with a good brush and mohair roller we got streaks. I'm doing 1 more coat then sealing with something I'm not afraid to touch.
Meredith says
Hi Jillaine, I'm sorry to hear that! If the paint looks streaky, that's usually a sign you need another coat. But it's the scratching off that really surprises me. Did you give the paint at least a day to cure first? And you've got me wondering what kind of wood you're painting over, so I can let people know for future reference. Thanks for the feedback!
Alyssa Seaver says
Hi, I’ve been doing a lot of research regarding painting my maple cabinets. Your article is extremely helpful. Would you call the color you created more of an ivory? And now that it’s been four years since you painted them are you still happy with the quality?
Meredith says
Hi Alyssa, so glad to help! I would not call my color Ivory. It's definitely white, but I just added a tiny bit of brown to keep it from being too bright. If you like the way these look but don't want to mix paint, I think you'll be happy with the pure white. And they've held up great! Once or twice I've touched up the edge of the cabinet door we use the most, but it's super easy and quick. I've been so happy with this project!
Alyssa Seaver says
Thank you for your quick reply! I am actually looking for a cream color. Would I want warm white or some kind of mixture?
Meredith says
Oh I see, yes I think you'd want warm white which is a quite sunny ivory color, or a half and half mix of warm white and pure white, if you're going for something a little less yellow-y. Does that make sense? Color is so hard! If it were me, I'd get a jar of each and try different mixes on one cabinet door until you figure out the combination you like, then place your full order. But I know it's hard to wait! I don't think you could go wrong with half warm white and half pure white.
Bob says
Hey, Meredith! Well, now I'm painting the kitchen cabinets at our church and cannot order any of the Deco Art Blocker/Sealer... Ugh! Due to the pandemic, a lot of online retailers have no availability. Do you think I could do the church kitchen cabinet job with just primer & paint? The cabinets are smooth (thank God) but there are a lot more of them to prime/paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Meredith says
Yes! I've heard this from several other people and have been recommending Zinsser BIN primer instead. You should be able to get it from any home improvement store, or maybe even Walmart. Good luck!
Stephanie says
I would love to do this with my cabinets, but the original paint job done on them is pretty sloppy and shows drip marks. Will I need to sand those down first before I start? And if so, do I do that before priming?
Meredith says
Hi Stephanie! Yes, any kind of bump, drip, or peeling paint will still be raised even after you paint over it, so I'd recommend fixing it first. The process is: sand those down first, then clean, then prime and paint. Best of luck!
Collene says
Will this process work on glossy wood cabinets?
Meredith says
Yes, DecoArt says this product is made to go on any type of wood. If you're concerned, it wouldn't hurt to do a test spot first and make sure you're happy with the results.
Emma says
Hi! Did you paint the inside of the cabinet doors for this project?
Meredith says
Hi Emma, I did not do my insides because I figured I'd eventually replace all the cabinets anyway. But now I like them so much I may never replace them, so I'm wishing I would have done the insides too while I was at it!
Dianne says
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for this article, I am dying to try it! Behr has an enamel paint, do you think that would work as a substitute to Deco art?
Thanks!
Dianne
Meredith says
Hi Diane, I've never used the Behr so I can't say, but it should give you a similar finish. The one thing I've seen with other paints I've used is they're usually thinner than the DecoArt which means you need to watch out for drips. Let us know how it goes!
Lisa says
Dianne- Just curious if you used the Behr paint and how it worked out. For the reason you would have move color choices. Thanks
christine says
My kichen cabinets are awful and they have brush marks on them can I still use your method?????
Meredith says
Hi Christine, yes you can use this method, but I'd highly recommend sanding them first to smooth out those brush strokes. I know, that goes against the point of not having to sand, but nothing is really going to cover those brush marks if they are slightly raised from a poor paint job before. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you'll be much happier with the finish if you give them a little extra TLC first!
Sarah says
Can you use this method on previously painted cabinets?
Meredith says
Yes you sure can! As long as the previous paint is in good shape, not peeling or chipping. If it's not, you'll need to sand it first to get an even surface to work on, or the imperfect texture will be visible through the new paint.
Jo says
I am a little confused. In your article you mentioned leaving doors on and later you talk about how to take off the doors. Do you suggest taking cabinets off, or either way will be fine?
Thanks-
Jo
Meredith says
Sorry for the confusion! So at first you leave the doors on to paint the fronts. Then once that step is completed, you'll remove them to paint the edges and the cabinet frames beneath. (It's technically possible to do all of it without removing the doors at all, but it's time consuming to work around the hinges and hardware, so I recommend removing them at that point.) Hope that clears it up!
wendy bohannon says
How much paint did you need to buy to do your kitchen?
Meredith says
Hi Wendy, I used about 12 jars of paint. Each jar covers about 20 square feet, and you'll probably need two coats. Hope that helps!
Cammie says
I was wondering if this would work through a sprayer? I am buying a home with outdated ornate antiqued cabinets. I plan to pop some of the heavy ornamentation in the molding. Since I will do this before moving in I am doing bathrooms and kitchen hoping to buy some time before remodeling.
Meredith says
Yes, you should be able to use a sprayer to do this project! I'd love to hear how it goes for you, as you're not the first person to ask me this. I like using rollers and brushes, but I know people swear by their sprayers, especially for bigger projects!
Angie Shuck says
We have an older style cabinet (probably pressed wood) that has already been painted a dark brown. Could I still use this method?
Meredith says
Hi Angie, you can definitely use this method if your previous paint job is holding up well. If the paint is peeling or chipping, you'll need to remove it first.
Claire says
Hello! This post is several years old, so this is a long shot, but the Sable color is not available. What other color by DecoArt can I mix with the pure white to get a color like yours?
Thanks!
Meredith says
Hi Claire, yes I'm sorry I don't have a better answer for you. I've been hearing how the DecoArt colors are not always available, and I've been recommending that people try Valspar cabinet and furniture enamel that can be tinted to any color. (I've actually recently had some color-matched to my cabinets. If you'd like I could try sending a photo of the bar code they put on mine, and see if your local Lowe's could use that to give you the same color.) If you already have the DecoArt white, I'd suggest trying a different brown or warm gray if you can get a hold of any. Just be sure to do a test first, to make sure you like the color!
Ashley Skaare says
What do you recommend if my cabinets have been painted before And topped with poly acrylic
Meredith says
Polyacrylic is great, and the new paint will go right over it, as long as the finish is in good shape. If it’s chipping or peeling, you’ll need to sand first. You might want to try a small test spot to make sure it works for you.
Debbie says
What if we painted our cabinets 10 years ago with a Behr Satin Enamel? Is is best to sand them?
Meredith says
Hi Debbie, if your 10 year old paint job is holding up well then you can just paint right over it. If it's chipping or peeling, you'll need to sand first. You might want to try a small test spot to make sure it works for you.
Echo says
I’m not finding any of the bright white available. Do you recommend another type of paint that has similar application process?
Meredith says
Yes, I've heard that a lot recently, and I've started recommending (and using) Valspar Cabinet and Furniture enamel. I've been so happy with the quality and how easy it is to use, plus you can get it mixed in any color you like. It's a little drippier than the DecoArt, so you have to be careful when painting vertically, but it's my new go-to now. You can see more about it in this article: https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/
Steve says
Has anyone ever mixed the Art Deco Satin Enamel colors, and how did that work out. I am thinking the Denim Blue & Smoke Gray. The blue is too dark for us.
Meredith says
Hi Steve, DecoArt is made to be mixed, if you like. I personally mixed the pure white and sable for my warm white color, and on another project I mixed two grays. I think the denim blue and smoke gray would be a great combo. Just be sure to mix enough for your whole project, once you've got the color you like!
Ann says
So after four years of these posts, can anyone share the longevity of the outcome of painted cabinets without sanding? I would love not to sand but will if it gives me best outcome. Thanks for responding.
Meredith says
Hi Ann, these have held up beautifully over the years! I've done a couple of small touch ups, mostly on the under-sink cabinet where I keep my trash. That's the highest use cabinet in the whole kitchen and it does occasionally get nicked. But that's a 2 minute fix and everything else is still like the day I painted them. You can read more here: https://thepalettemuse.com/painted-kitchen-cabinet-faqs-theyre-holding/
Mary Jenison says
I noticed that you decided not to paint the inside of your cabinets. I plan on painting my dark wood cabinets “white”, won’t it look funny to open the white cabinet door and see a dark interior?
Meredith says
Hi Mary, yes it did look funny and I recently went back and painted the insides of the doors. It's a little more work, but totally worth it!
Hilary Wood says
I have been wanting to refinish my kitchen cabinets for over 5 years. It was just too overwhelming with the number of cabinets and drawers I have. After reading your blog, I finally felt it was doable. I just finished using your technique! Took my time and had to use a different paint but this was so easy and didn't disrupt my kitchen! Thank you! I've shared your blog with others.
Meredith says
I'm so glad this was helpful to you! Thanks for sharing!
Nancy says
Do you think this method and paint will work on smooth maple cabinets? They have a clear stain/sealer on them and are about 12 years old. I really don't want to pay thousands of dollars to pay an expert.
Thank you
Meredith says
Yes, I've seen this work on all different types of wood and finishes. The key is making sure you clean all the surfaces well so the paint will stick directly to the wood finish and not to any grease or buildup that may be on the surface of the cabinets from cooking. I would say if you're nervous about it, try it on the inside of a door first to make sure you like the finish.
Darlene Pluko says
Can this go over oak look cabinets that have that laminate stuff on them.
Meredith says
Hi Darlene, you might want to take a look at my post dedicated to painting over laminate: https://thepalettemuse.com/how-to-paint-laminate-cabinets-without-sanding/
Jaime says
Hi! We are about to use this as guidance for painting our cabinets. Thank you for posting this! Can you tell me how you sealed the bucket with the paint for overnight? Thank you!
Meredith says
Great question! First, I used a bucket that had a good sealing lid. (It was an old drywall patching compound bucket but you could get an empty paint bucket with lid from your hardware store.) Then when I was done painting for the day I first laid a layer of cling wrap on the top of the bucket and then clicked the lid on. That gave it an airtight seal.
JS says
It looks like DecoArt paint at all, not just the primer, are "on pause" during covid. Any suggestions for an alternate brand that would work as well?
Meredith says
Yes, I've been hearing that lately. The paint I'm recommending now (because I've used it several times and love it) is Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Enamel. You can read more about it in this article, under "Products - Option 2": https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/
Lynnette FitzSimmons says
Can this Deco paint be used over an already painted cabinet? I know the cabinets were painted about 30 years ago. Also, do you apply any kind of sealer after painting with the Deco paint?
Meredith says
Hi Lynnette, yes you can use this paint over previously painted cabinets, as long as the finish of that paint is in good shape. If it's cracking or peeling, you'll need to repair that first. And no, there is no need for a sealer or topcoat with the DecoArt paint. That's why I love it!
Erica says
Did you paint the inside face of the cabinet doors? If not, does it look weird when you open them or just matches the interior cabinetry?
Meredith says
At first I didn't because I was in a hurry, but they did look weird, so I've since gone back and painted the insides. Much better!
Jeannine says
So have you ever tried staining a different color over your already wood stained and glazed cabinets? I still want the wood look, but the knotty alder has "oranged" over the years and I would like to grey it down so I get a greige wood look.
Meredith says
I have not, but that's because my understanding is that to stain something, you need to first remove any top coats and stain that are already on it. That way the stain can penetrate the wood grain. So I'd recommend sanding first if you want to try staining your cabinets instead of painting.
MonaFirstLady says
How do i get paint off the original cabinet
Meredith says
The reason I love this method is you don't need to remove the original paint. But if you want to, you can sand off the paint.
Beth says
Curious to know how much Decoart paint you used for this project? Also, it’s been a few years, how has the paint held up? I think thinking of attempting this!
Meredith says
Hi Beth, I used about 10 jars of paint on this project, And it's holding up great! I'd do it the same way again in a heartbeat. The only thing is I've been hearing that the DecoArt paint is hard to find right now. So I've written a whole updated post with other paint options, if you're interested: https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/
Toni Brown says
I have a few questions, my cabinets are really old, they have these accessory closure pieces that snap together holding the door closed. To remedy this I was going to replace hinges with hidden soft close. However, the door thickness is too thin for the screws. Do they make a shorter screw to use? Should I use a shorter screw? Or is there something else to do without having to change my doors? Or add a piece of thicker wood to the backs of the doors? I’m trying to sell this house which is our old home, already living in our new home. Will have to remove all hardware and fill in holes anyway. Will have to take doors off too, no decoart paint. I was hoping I could just buy the new white hinges , but I don’t know if the door will close with just the hinge, ugh, help. Thanks so much for this article.
Meredith says
Hi Toni, that's a great question, but I can't answer it just yet. I'm in the process of researching hidden hinges for my own project and I think the problem you're describing may mean you need new doors. Have you thought about just replacing the doors? I know there's a company called Acme Cabinet Doors that a friend recently recommended. You might try them. Let me know how it goes!
Carla Neal says
So the only time you are painting horizontal is when your painting the inside of the door? Correct?
Meredith says
Correct. That just saves you time and space as you're doing the bulk of the work while the cabinets are still attached.