What do you do if you want to paint your kitchen cabinets, but they're not real wood? Using the right method, you can paint right over those laminate cabinets, or any other kind of laminate furniture that needs a color update!
This is a post that has been almost three years in the making, and boy is it a relief to finally get it out! When I published my original tutorial on the best way to paint kitchen cabinets (without sanding!), I got a barrage of questions like "Does this method work on laminate cabinets?" Or "My cabinets are melamine, will this work?"
The short answer is yes, with one easy modification. I'll show you how, but first, let's talk about laminate.
This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.
Yes You Can Paint Laminate!
What is laminate, you ask? It can basically be any type of furniture, cabinets, or wood-like product that is made by attaching a thin layer of printed plastic (sometimes called Melamine or Thermofoil) to a substrate of plywood or particle board. Usually the plastic is printed with a wood pattern to mimic actual wood flooring or cabinetry, but it could be any color or pattern.
If you paint a piece of real wood furniture or cabinetry, the wood will absorb some of the paint or primer into its pores, which creates a tight bond and helps the paint stick to the wood. Laminate, on the other hand, does not have a porous surface, so it's harder to get paint to stick to it.
(The beauty of laminate cabinets or countertops is the ease of clean-up and resistance to stains. This is the very same property that makes laminate difficult to paint.)
By the way, "Veneer" is slightly different from laminate. Veneered wood is a similar concept, but instead of a plastic layer on top of plywood, it has a very thin layer of actual wood, called a veneer. If you are painting a veneer-wood piece of furniture, I recommend the method outlined in my original cabinet painting post.
The Right Way to Paint Over Laminate
As with any paint job, the secret to success is in the preparation, not the painting. And this project is no different. So how do you prepare laminate correctly, so the paint can adhere to its slick surface?
Sanding is always a good idea when prepping to paint, but I'll let you in on a little secret: I hate sanding. It's messy, time consuming, and generally a nuisance that prevents me from jumping into a new project. So if there's any way around it, I will take it.
Long story short, I contacted my favorite paint people, DecoArt, and asked them if they had a product they recommend for painting laminate cabinets, similar to the Satin Enamel I used on my kitchen cabinets.
To my surprise, they responded by recommending I use Chalky Finish paint as a primer, and Satin Enamels as a top coat. Brilliant! And then they sent me some of both to try.
(Thank you DecoArt for providing the paint for this project! As always, my opinions on the products are my own.)
So without further ado, I give you the answer to...
How to Paint Laminate Cabinets without Sanding
First, you'll need to make sure your laminate is in good condition. Peeling or buckling will not be fixed by painting! Then clean your cabinets really well. Especially in the kitchen, cabinets can harbor all sorts of greasy grime that will prevent even the best paint from sticking. I love Krud Kutter for this job. Just spray it on and wipe it off with a damp rag, taking care to get into all the crevices between surfaces.
The rest is simply a two part process, consisting of a primer coat of Chalky Finish paint and a top coat or two of Satin Enamels paint. Easy peasy! Well, sort of. Here's the breakdown. (Skip to the end if you want a concise, printable checklist of the whole process.)
You'll need about a jar of Chalky Finish paint and a jar of Satin Enamels for each 20 sq. ft. of cabinetry you're painting. (I used mostly white, with a little gray mixed in to make my own custom light gray cabinet color.) You'll also need a paint roller and tray, and a soft paint brush.
Leave your cabinet doors attached and roll on your first layer of Chalky Finish paint on the face of the doors and drawers. (Don't worry yet about the edges or the backs of the doors.) Then use a soft paint brush to get into all the areas the roller couldn't reach, like the insets in the doors. If your doors have knobs or pulls, remove them and keep them in a baggie for reattaching later.
Pro Painter Tip: Chalk paint can be a little thick. As you're rolling or brushing it on, be sure to clean up any areas where the paint builds up or pools in corners. And if you brush along the length of the surface, as if following the wood grain, this will give you a smoother finish later. If you end up with drips or raised areas, these can be sanded down after the paint dries, before your finishing coats.
This layer of paint won't take long to dry, which is one of the advantages of chalk paint. While the paint is drying, label each door and corresponding cabinet with numbered blue tape. Like this:
I promise you think you'll remember where each door goes, especially if you're doing a small kitchen, but take it from me - you will not. Remove the doors, laying them on their backs to let the paint finish drying.
Now go back and paint the cabinet frames in the same way: roll the larger flat areas, and use the brush to get into any tight corners or edges.
Tip: you may need to use blue painter's tape to mask off any items that come into contact with your cabinet frames, such as vent hoods, or wall edges.
Remove the cabinet hinges and use a paint brush to finish applying chalk paint to the edges of the doors and drawers. (If you want to paint the inside of the cabinet doors, flip them over and do that now.)
Once all the paint is dry, inspect everything for raised drips, unwanted brushstrokes, or other imperfections in the surface of the chalk paint. You can lightly sand these down using a handheld sanding sponge or sandpaper. Or, if you're like me, you can call them "character" and move on to the next step.
Finally, paint over everything the same way with the Satin Enamels paint. You may need two coats to get an even, satiny finish. Again, it's important to roll and brush in the direction of the "wood" grain, and avoid paint build-up in the corners and edges.
Let your project dry for at least 24 hours and then reattach the hinges and pulls and match up the doors to the proper cabinets. I recommend that when you reattach the cabinet doors, leave them open for another day or so, just to let the paint really finish curing. This will prevent them from sticking together when they close. Or you can attach little bumper pads, which also helps keep the doors from banging closed.
No More Ugly Laminate Cabinets!
In my camper makeover, these cabinets went from two-tone orangey wood color, to a pretty light gray. I couldn't be happier with the transformation!
(Check out the whole camper makeover reveal post to see the rest of the projects!)
And just to be sure that this paint job would hold up, we took the camper out for the weekend on a muddy, messy camping trip and these cabinets performed amazingly well. The satin finish allows me to easily wipe down whatever drips or splats onto the surface, and they stand up well to scuffs and bumps.
Chalk paint is famous for sticking to just about anything, and in this case it makes the perfect primer between the laminate surface and the Satin Enamels paint. It's easy to apply and dries quickly. And the Satin Enamels provide the perfect durable finish over the chalk paint. (All chalk paint needs a top coat of some kind.) So they make the perfect pair for a DIY kitchen makeover, or updating an old piece of laminate furniture.
Update: I've heard that the DecoArt products can be hard to find right now, so be sure to check out this comprehensive cabinet painting tutorial for my updated product recommendations. The process remains the same.
One Last Thing...
If you're wondering how to avoid some common cabinet painting pitfalls, be sure to check out my post on how not to paint cabinets.
Finally, here's the laminate painting process in a quick, printable format. And as always, let me know if you have questions along the way!
Paint Laminate Cabinets
Can you paint laminate? YES! All you need are the right supplies, and a little patience!
Instructions
- Check to make sure your laminate is in good condition. If it's peeling or chipped, make those repairs before painting.
- Clean your cabinets thoroughly with Krud Kutter to remove any kitchen grease or dust. Leave the cabinet doors attached to the frames for now.
- Use a roller to apply Chalky Finish paint to the cabinet doors.
- Use a paint brush to chalk-paint any spots the roller couldn't reach. Be careful of drips or paint build-up!
- Label your cabinet doors and remove them and all their hardware.
- Use the roller and/or brush to apply chalk paint to the cabinet frames.
- Finish applying the chalk paint to the edges (and backs, if desired) of the cabinet doors.
- Repeat steps 3, 4, and 6 with Satin Enamels paint. You may need two coats of the Satin Enamels for an even finish.
- Allow plenty of time (at least a day) for the paint to dry.
- Reattach doors to frames and leave open for a few more days while the paint is fully curing.
Notes
Sanding is not necessary to prepare laminate for paint, but you might want to check between coats to make sure you're getting an even finish. You can lightly sand between coats if you see raised brush or roller marks.
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Molly says
I have a question on the primer for laminate... should we allow 7 days for this primer to dry also before we paint as you recommend in the painting wood cabinets process?
Meredith says
Hi Molly, this method is a little different from my other wood cabinet post. For this one you'll use chalk paint as the primer, and it can be repainted as soon as it's dry to the touch. So no need to wait 7 days!
Cathy says
Hello, I am wondering if I could also use the chalk paint as a primer on oak cabinets in order to avoid the seven day wait period before the paint enamel is applied. Thank you.
Meredith says
Yes I'm sure you could! Chalk paint makes a great primer because it sticks to just about anything. You might need to lightly sand it after it dries though, because it's a little thicker and might have some texture that you don't want.
Alexis Whaley says
Thank you for this great post! I'm thinking of tackling my laminate kitchen cabinets but s do have a few chips where they've peeled at the edges (and my toddler felt like ripping it off was cool! :P) Do you have any recommendations for how to repair those peels before painting? Thanks! 🙂
Meredith says
Hi Alexis, sorry to take so long getting back to you. I don't have experience with peeling laminate, so I was doing a little research. I saw a product that claims to seal peeling paint, so it might be worth a try: https://amzn.to/2PcxD1S
I don't know if it would work on laminate, but I'd love to hear back from you if you try it!
Connie says
@Meredith, I have chalk painted laminate edges with peeling spots on a coffee table, and I use a layer of ModPodge. I sanded the peeled areas gently first, then applied a thin layer of ModPodgeto keep it stuck. Then I carried on with my chalk paint and finish. Over time there were other small peels, and the ModPodge alone, applied in a thin layer, was enough to repair it. It dries clear.
Meredith says
Wow, that's great to hear! Another reason to love ModPodge...
[email protected] says
My cabinets had the laminate totally peeled off exposing the plywood. Now I have the cabinet totally exposed. Will this method still work?
Meredith says
Hi Joann, yes this method will work on any kind of wood. However, I'm wondering about the texture of the wood under the laminate? Sometimes it's very rough (to help the laminate stick) and all that texture would show through the paint. The paint will stick, but it just might not look smooth and even when you're done. Try a test spot first and see if you like the effect. I'm guessing that with the plywood exposed, anything will look better than what you've got now. ?
Sarah says
Hi. Thank you for taking the time to do this post. With everything going on in the world I figured now would be a great time to take this home project on. About how many jars of paint would you recommend I get? I have 20 doors and 6 drawers. Just want to get an idea before I order online. Same with the chalky paint for the primer, how many do you think Ill need?
TIA
Meredith says
Hi Sarah, the jars each over about 20 square feet each, so you'll need to do a little math to figure out how much surface area you have. I would guess about 3 jars of the chalky finish and 4-5 of the satin enamels, depending on the size of your doors and whether you plan to paint the insides as well. You need less of the chalky finish, since you'll only need one coat of that as a primer, but you'll likely need two coats of the satin enamels.
Sue Giddings says
so according to you a jar would cover maybe 7 doors ... how do you get that tiny jar to do that? lol if you pour it into a roll pan wouldnt 1 swipe with a roller suck it all up? im very curious on this i dont understand how 1 jar can stretch that far, please help me to understand
Meredith says
Hmm I'm not sure how to explain it but that is what I found. Maybe you're thinking of those large wall rollers? The little 4" ones don't suck up too much paint. And those coverage numbers refer to each coat, so if you need two or three coats you'll need to double or triple your estimate. Does that help?
Denise Turner says
We are redoing our kitchen in our single wide mobile home. We have the ugly laminate cabinets and covering them up. So far we've put chalky finish Misty grey on them and have started applying the clear satin enamel. Next is new floor, painting countertops, wood island countertop and a shiplap wall.
Meredith says
That sounds lovely! It will be a complete transformation!
Heather says
Looking forward to doing this!! I want a light gray finished product. Should I still use white chalky paint? And make a light gray satin enamel?
Meredith says
Yes, you can use a white undercoat if you're painting a light color on top. That'll be a lot easier than mixing your own color. If you were going darker I would recommend tinting your undercoat closer to the color of your top coat.
Arielle says
Hi, I want to paint an 8 cube storage unit high gloss red, since I am unable to find it in that color anywhere. I was going to purchase a new white one. Will this method work if I use a high gloss instead of a satin?
Meredith says
Oh that sounds fun! Yes, this same method should work with high gloss as well, but you will have to make extra sure to keep your base coat free of brush strokes or they will show through the gloss. You might also try Zinsser BIN primer instead of the chalk paint, as it's a little thinner and might give you an even smoother finish. I would recommend trying a test spot of both first to see which you like better.
Cari says
Alexis, Did you end up trying the Rustoleum Meredith suggested? I am renting a house right now and our cabinets are doing the same thing; the laminate is peeling off horribly. I am not paying to put new ones in, but these are driving me nuts. Thanks.
Cari
Nina says
I’d love to ask a question! Their offered gray color is a little too dark for what I’m looking for. I read that you mixed white in with the gray. Did you mix the white satin enamel with the gray color or did you just use the white primer to lighten up the gray top coat? My kitchen doesn’t get a lot of light so I’m trying to keep things airy!
Meredith says
That's a great question! I mixed the white satin enamel with the gray satin enamel. It's always good to keep the same type of paint together when mixing paint colors. Also, you'll probably need more white than you'd expect to lighten up the gray. I usually start with white and add in the gray a little at a time. Hope that helps!
Karen says
I am not sure if my cabinets are laminate or veneer how can I tell? The paint on our bathroom cabinets as peeled up and off the kitchen cabinets don’t seem to do that.
Meredith says
Laminate is basically plastic with wood grain printed on it. Veneer uses a very thin sheet of actual wood, so it behaves more like real wood. So it's harder to get paint to stick to laminate than veneer. Did you paint them, or do you mean the paint that was on there before?
Vikki says
Looks awesome! I was wondering, do the doors still feel like a chalkboard to the touch, or does the satin paint on top change that?
Meredith says
Hi Vikki, yes the satin paint covers the chalkboard feel and makes them feel smooth and well, satiny, to the touch. It also protects them from wear and tear, and allows you to wipe spills right off.
Karen Handley says
The paint that is on there now it’s white and I want a darker gray color.
Meredith says
You can definitely paint over already-painted cabinets, but if the previous finish is peeling off, you'll need to completely remove any peeling sections first.
Nina says
Meredith - you are like my fairy god-sister! Thank you for providing this great information. I’m facing several projects and your blog makes the process seem much less daunting. You’ve got a new loyal fan/follower.
Meredith says
Oh Nina, you just made my day! Thanks for commenting and best of luck on your projects!
Vikki says
Awesome, thank you Meredith! Can't wait to try it 🙂
Lisa says
Looks awesome, thanks for sharing! Is this process durable or will the paint begin to chip after awhile?
Meredith says
Thanks Lisa! Yes, this process is very durable. I did mine almost a year ago and haven't found a single scratch. I would categorize ours as a "light use" area. If you are doing a heavy use area, you may need to touch up occasional scratches. Simply keep your leftover topcoat paint (the Satin Enamels) and touch up with a brush as needed.
Tina Sanchez says
Hi! My cabinets are wood doors and fronts but laminate on the sides only. Should I do laminate procedure for both wood and laminate or just for laminate? I was wondering if the color would be matching if I did not? thanks for a great article!
Nikki says
Great post! Would I have to remove the kitchen cabinet doors to do this? Or can I leave them on?
Meredith says
Thanks Nikki! You don't need to remove the doors but I find it easier than trying to paint cleanly around the hinges. It's totally up to you though!
Meredith says
Hi Tina, great question! That's how mine were too, wood doors with laminate frames. I used the same laminate painting procedure on both so the colors all match up correctly.
Mary Ennis says
Do you recommend “sealing” the cabinets after? But really? No sanding?? Should I get a chalk paint similar to the color I’ll be painting it? I feel nervous about not sanding!
Meredith says
Hi Mary, you're not alone, I get both the sealer and the sanding questions fairly frequently! First, yes really - no sanding. Almost too good to be true, I know. But I promise it works! And the Satin Enamels paint doesn't need a sealer, which is part of its appeal. It dries hard and durable, and is completely wipeable after it's dry. And yes, you should get a chalk paint close to your enamel color, to make your life easier and use less coats of the top color. Best of luck!
Karen says
I am so happy I saw your article, we are having our bathroom completely redone with the exception of one oddly sized cabinet. I have redone many pieces of furniture with chalk paint, I always make my own do you think it would work with my homemade chalk paint?
Meredith says
Hi Karen, great question! Yes I think this would work just the same with your homemade chalk paint, especially if you have good experiences making your own. You're halfway there already!
Maryellen says
HI. I’m painting a laminated bathroom vanity cabinet. What color chalky paint should I use, if I am using the DecoArt “smoke grey” satin finish enamel?
Meredith says
Hi Maryellen, I would recommend the chalky finish paint in artifact. It may not be exactly the same as smoke grey but it will make a nice base coat.
Diane says
Do I have to use deco art products or any chalk paint.
Meredith says
Hi Diane, this should work the same with any kind of chalk paint. It's just that my experience is with DecoArt. Just be sure to use an enamel topcoat. I've got a new post out with some other paint options - you can check it out here: https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/
I'd love to hear how it goes and what you use!
Laurie says
Hi Meredith. I am so excited I found your blog on this subject. I have wanted to paint my kitchen cabinets for a very long time. My daughter and husband have said that they have to be sanded. I told them I have seen articles on how to paint them without sanding. That's why I'm glad you have excellent instructions on how to paint without sanding. I do have a question. My cabinets are a dark wood color. What color chalk paint should I use? I want to paint them a light color.
Meredith says
Hi Laurie, so glad I could help! I would try to use the closest chalk paint color to your top coat color as possible. They don't need to be exact, but getting them close will cut down on how many top coats you'll need. Even white would be fine, as long as you're painting them a light color. Best of luck on your project!
Ashley says
Meredith, what about a bathroom countertop? Can that be painted? Is the paint oil or latex based?
Meredith says
Hi Ashley, you can see how I painted my countertops in this post: https://thepalettemuse.com/100-room-challenge-week-3-painted-countertops/
Reta Berman says
On your old kitchen to get a more modern look you can buy what I call end caps (really cabinet doors) either new or at habitat or look in FB marketplace (you can post there and say looking for...). You can liquid nail then nail gun them from the inside. This is put over the indented wavy part. Measure the area and buy or make. A acme cabinet door 14”x18” is less than $13 in MDF unfinished. Several styles are offered and some may be less. Also inexpensive glass doors to really up your game.
Love your ideas. Thanks
AMBER LUMPKIN says
What if you read a post about laminate cabinets and it said to remove the laminate. Well I removed all the plastic off of all the cabinets and drawers.
Can I still do the chalk paint, then the satin paint?
The one I read was to remove all the loose laminate which was easy, the only laminate left is on the inside of the doors. Then use a primer and paint that was oiled based.
What is the difference?
Meredith says
Hi Amber, yes you can still use the chalk paint. When you removed the plastic, did it leave a rough surface? If so, you might want to try sanding that first. But the nice thing about chalk paint is it has a little texture to it, and it sticks to everything well, so I think that's your best bet in this case. The oil based primer and paint will work too, but that method requires more sanding and more prep work to get a smooth finish. And the cleanup is a bit harder. I'd go with chalk paint and then the satin enamel. Try it on one door first to make sure you like it!
Alicia says
Hi Meredith! I really enjoyed reading your post. Do you think that chalk paint would work on a banister and railing too as a primer? I believe that the material is oak. Also — any helpful suggestions for tackling this project I will gladly accept, haha!
Meredith says
Hi Alicia, yes I think the chalk paint would work! Just make sure to use a good enamel top coat to seal it. You can read more of my tips about painting here: https://thepalettemuse.com/what-you-need-to-know-before-painting-cabinets/ It's about cabinets, but also applies to furniture and banisters!
Annette says
Hi Meredith,
I want to repaint my laminate cabinets. If I use the Velspers(sp?) brand from Lowes do I still need to use chalk paint first? Thank you!
Meredith says
Hi Annette, yes I would still use either chalk paint on Zinsser BIN primer before the enamel. It will help with adherence and keep your paint job looking perfect for longer.
Idalia Batson says
Okay. Sounds good I will complete my painting now. How to get rid of old knob holes to accommodate current hardware.
Meredith says
Before you finish painting, you can fill the old holes with wood filler and sand them smooth, to get rid of holes that will be in the wrong spot for your new hardware. Once they're filled, smooth, and painted, you'll never know they were there!
Christine Melgren says
Hello, I have a question do I have to use the satin enamel paint for the top coat? I already have the paint that I want my cabinets to be, it’s an eggshell enamel by Behr paint ( Home Depot) Please let me know,
Thank you : ))
Meredith says
Hi Christine, I'm not familiar with which one you're asking about. Hopefully the Behr cabinet enamel! You can use other types of paint, especially if you already have it. Just keep an eye on it over time to make sure the finish is holding up well.
Christen Parks says
Loved your article!!! So happy I found it
The chalky paint finish paint has to be white? Or should I use the color I want to paint the cabinets?
I want to do black and grey
Thanks in advance
Meredith says
Oh great question! You can do either, but I'd recommend using the same or a similar color to the finish paint color. That will cut down on needing extra coats of paint to cover the chalk paint "primer" layer.
Heather says
Would I be able to spray this with a paint sprayer? The enamel paint at least? I’m planning on making custom built-ins for my office. The company I’m ordering cabinets from, for whatever reason, offers the base cabinets in unfinished wood and the top cabinets (glass doors) with laminate finishing instead of wood. I was going to spray with regular paint until I realized that.
Meredith says
Yes, you should be able to spray your cabinets with the enamel paint. I don't have much experience with spraying, but I know lots of people do it and love the outcome. The enamel is still the best option for a smooth, durable finish.
Jaime says
How can you tell the difference between a wood veneer and laminate cabinet? I saw your note at the top of the post about the two different methods used for these different surfaces, and I'm very new to this!
Meredith says
Oh good question! Since wood veneer is made of a very thin layer of actual wood, you should be able to still see the wood grain if you sand through the top layer of stain. If it's laminate, you'll sand through to a substrate with no grain because it's made of plastic. Also, wood weathers differently from laminate. If it's old, you might be able to see how the layers and grain of the wood are drying out and slightly separated. In the end, it's not critical to know the difference. When in doubt, use the method described in this post for painting laminate. (I recommended the other method for wood, but if you're not sure, it's safer to use this method.)
Connie Arasmith says
I want to do my entire kitchen which includes 8 upper, 6 lower, 4 drawers & an island with cabinets underneath not including the 3 outside walls. It's all laminate & I'm wondering the cost. Thank you.
Lisa says
So helpful! I’m looking to painting the top of my desk from black to a color pop in my office. Which method do you suggest for ash veneer that also has a Clear acrylic lacquer?
Meredith says
You can use this method for that! Or you can replace the chalk paint with Zinsser Bin primer if that's easier to find.
Roger says
Thanks for a great write up! Im testing this out now on my own klitchen. Just to let you know , the "chalky white" hyperlink above links to the wrong paint (links to satin enamel). I learned this the hard way and bought the wrong one. 🙁
Meredith says
Roger, thanks for letting me know! I've fixed it in the post, and I'm so sorry I led you astray. Hope your project is going well!
Rhonda says
would the "cabinet rescue melamine laminate cabinet paint" work as well on laminate cabinets? It seems to eliminate the chalky paint or zinnser BIN step. Home depot and lowes carry it.
Meredith says
Hi Rhonda, I haven't tried that product, but I'd love to hear back from you if you do!
Pat says
Your article has helped me re painting laminate cupboards. One question, you suggest satin finish as the color coat. Is there any reason I shouldn't use semi-gloss paint?? I prefer that for my kitchen cupboards but won't use if it doesn't work.
Meredith says
Nope, feel free to use whichever you prefer. Both will work, and you should have what you like, after putting so much work into the project!
Cathy says
Thanks so much for this life hack! I did not want to sand my pine-look laminate dresser down before painting it. I bought a dark gray chalky texture paint and threw on a coat. Then did one coat of a glossy black and it looks fabulous and seems to be holding up well!
Meredith says
That's awesome, I'm so glad to hear that!
Tonya Overbaugh says
Hello, I was wondering if chalky spray paint will work as well as paint in ajar? I have some left over from a lamp project I finished recently.
Thanks
Tonya
Meredith says
Hi Tonya, I haven't tried the spray chalk paint, but it seems like it should work the same. I'd love to hear back from you if you try it!
Susan says
Help! First timer here. Laminate bathroom cabinets. I used primer-waited a day, then 2 coats of satin enamel waiting 24 hrs in between. Waited 3 full days for drying before hanging.
Problem: scratches just trying g to put doors back on.
Any thoughts????
Thanks.
Meredith says
Hi Susan, I'm so sorry to hear that! What kind of primer did you use?
SJE says
OMG-Super easy! Thank you so very much for making my life easy, husband friendly, and beautiful in the end.
PS-Ladies, we all know our hubbies will want to help—do not let them (with the exception of holding the doors when YOU take them off). My husband showed up with a hacksaw, pliers and an electric high powered sander. I told him-Go Away! “this is Women's work”. Haha. He silently walked away, but did lend a hand holding the doors (after a short period of sulking). It makes it so much better if you are the one who knows everything about he project.
HINT-while waiting for doors to dry, go through the cabinets and throw out the expired food stuffed way back in the corner. You know, the super value buy for that low fat, low sodium ‘healthy’ foods in your 1992 New Year resolution.
Thank you again for your tutorials and tips.
Best to all,
SJE
(Baltimore, Md)
Jean Jent says
I have pressed board kitchen cabinets that look like wood. Should I just follow the non wood cabinet painting instructions. Thanks
Meredith says
Yes, I think the instructions for laminate would work well for pressed board cabinets. Let us know how it goes!
vanessa says
I have black chalkboard paint and want to lighten up my kitchen... I have light wood floors and black stainless steel appliances... any color recommendations
Doris says
If you do have damage to some of your laminate cupboards, how do you repair that?
Thank you
Sarah says
Hi please can you suggest a paint effect to give laminate cupboards a slight difference than flat white? I’m abit nervous it’ll be too white....I’ve thought of glitter or distressed colour underneath but I don’t trust I’ll finish it well. I’m painting knobs metallic colour, which I love & if there’s anything that may help please please let me know!
Thank u Sarah
Meredith says
Hi Sarah, when you say "flat white" do you mean you'd like a little more variation in color? You could try glazing, which deposits a tiny bit of darker color in all the crevices, like the grooves on the frames. I don't have a tutorial on that, but I've seen other bloggers write about it. Best of luck!
jedics says
What I really need to know is how durable it is, eg. is it going to just come off in high wear areas like the handles where finger nails occasionally touch it after a couple years?
Nobody hates sanding more than me but it ends up being way more work if you have to do it all again properly.
Meredith says
I completely agree about sanding! I was skeptical too, but so far mine have held up perfectly. I always keep a little jar of paint for touch ups, but I haven't had to use it yet.
Tina R says
The previous owners put laminate flooring on the kitchen island. Do you suppose the same process for cabinets would work?
Meredith says
Hmm that's an interesting one. Do you mean they put laminate planks on the cabinets? Or is more like a sheet of vinyl? I would think this process would work on laminate planks, but I'm not sure if it would work on vinyl. I'd love to hear what you decide!
Jennifer Hayes says
I have a question about painting rv cabinets. I really like your idea of using the decoart paint, but I found a cabinet paint at home depot that says it also covers wood and laminate. It's called Nuvo Plus. It's a primer and paint in one. Do you think that might work as well?
Meredith says
I haven't heard of Nuvo before, but I'd love to hear about your experience if you give it a try!
Jennifer Hayes says
I have a question about cabinet paint. I found some cabinet paint/primer on home depot. It says it can be used on laminate as well. It's called Nuvo Plus. I'm just curious if you think that might work, like the decoart that you suggested. I plan on doing all of the wood work in my rv.